The SImple Way to Use a Paint Roller

Load the roller cover with paint

Load the roller cover with paint by dipping into the paint about 1/2 in. and then rolling it against the screen. Filling a dry roller cover with paint will require five or six repetitions. After that, two or three dips are all you need. Leave the roller almost dripping with paint.

Roll paint on the wall

Lay the paint on the wall with a sweeping stroke. Start about a foot from the bottom and 6 in. from the corner and roll upward at a slight angle using light pressure. Stop a few inches from the ceiling. Now roll up and down back toward the corner to quickly spread the paint. You can leave paint buildup and roller marks at this step. Don’t worry about a perfect job yet.

Use a quality roller sleeve

A good roller cover is the most important part of your rolling setup.

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Smooth the paint along the ceiling using a long horizontal stroke without reloading the roller with paint. If you are skilled enough to roll within an inch of the ceiling while rolling vertically, you can skip this step.

Keep a wet edge. Keeping a wet edge is crucial to all top-quality paint jobs, whether you’re enameling a door, varnishing furniture or rolling paint on a wall. The idea is to plan the sequence of work and work fast enough so that you’re always lapping newly applied paint onto paint that’s still wet. If you stop for a break in the middle of a wall, for example, and then start painting after this section has dried, you’ll likely see a lap mark where the two areas join. The rolling technique we show avoids this problem by allowing you to quickly cover a large area with paint and then return to smooth it out—which brings us to the second important painting technique.

Lay it on, smooth it off. The biggest mistake most beginning painters make, whether they’re brushing or rolling, is taking too long to apply the paint. Photo 1 shows how to lay on the paint. Then quickly spread it out and repeat the laying-on process again (Photo 2). This will only work with a good-quality roller cover that holds a lot of paint. Until you’re comfortable with the technique and get a feel for how quickly the paint is drying, cover only about 3 or 4 ft. of wall before smoothing the whole area off (Photo 3). If you find the paint is drying slowly, you can cover an entire wall before smoothing it off.

Get as close as you can. Since rollers can’t get tight to edges, the first painting step is to brush along the ceiling, inside corners and moldings. This “cutting in” process leaves brush marks that won’t match the roller texture on the rest of the wall. For the best looking job, you’ll want to cover as many brush marks as possible with the roller. Do this by carefully rolling up close to inside corners, moldings and the ceiling. Face the open end of the roller toward the edge and remember not to use a roller that’s fully loaded with paint. With practice, you’ll be able to get within an inch of the ceiling rolling vertically, and can avoid crawling up on a ladder to paint horizontally like we show above.

Pick out the lumps before they dry. It’s inevitable that you’ll end up with an occasional lump in your paint. Keep the roller cover away from the floor where it might pick up bits of debris that are later spread against the wall. Drying bits of paint from the edge of the bucket or bucket screen can also cause this problem. Cover the bucket with a damp cloth when you’re not using it. If partially dried paint is sloughing off the screen, take it out and clean it. Keep a wet rag in your pocket and pick lumps off the wall as you go. Strain used paint through a mesh paint strainer to remove lumps.

Scrape excess paint from the roller before you wash it. Use your putty knife, or better yet, a special roller-scraping tool with a semicircular cutout in the blade. Then rinse the roller cover until the water runs clear. A roller and paint brush spinning tool, available at hardware and paint stores for about $8, simplifies the cleaning task. Just slip the roller cover onto the spinner and repeatedly wet and spin out the roller until it’s clean.

Paintway’s tips for preparation to painting inside your Home

Most of us can do an okay job of painting a room. But a seasoned professional does a great job. Obviously, pros have more experience than the average homeowner, but they also know techniques and tricks that make them better painters. Some of what you’ll read may surprise you. For instance, their secrets won’t cut painting time. Painters spend two to four days on an average-size room. That’s how long it takes to prep, prime and paint correctly. It’s more work, but when you stand back to admire the results, you’ll agree it’s time well spent.To begin, move everything out of the room. Bigger pieces of furniture can sometimes be left covered in the center of larger rooms, but if you are repairing wall, Take everything out. Plastering a wall dust…..dust goes everywhere.” Remove doors, light fixtures and hardware, and label everything with masking tape. Also, invest in drop cloths. “It’s surprising how well a few drops of paint can cover a floor, Buy high-quality drop cloths, such as canvas or paper-backed plastic. (Paint soaks right through lightweight fabrics and bedsheets.) Plastic sheeting works, but it’s very slippery and doesn’t absorb drips.

PREPARE THE SURFACES Find, then fix, cracks and dents 🙂

SELECTING THE PAINT Pick a powerful primer …Preparation is if not MORE important than the painting itself!

Paintway’s tips for preparation to painting inside your Home

CHOOSE THE RIGHT PAINTING EQUIPMENTRoller rules
The perfect roller would hold a roomful of paint, leave the right amount of texture, wouldn’t spray or fuzz, and would be easy to clean. Until somebody invents the ideal one, follow these tips to choose the right roller. “The longer the nap, the more paint the roller will hold, but it will also create more texture. A 1/2-inch nap lamb’s-wool roller holds plenty of paint without too much texture, Less expensive rollers can work, Just wash them first in dishwashing liquid to remove any stray fibers.

Use a bucket

Paintway prefer buckets with a roller grid to roller pans. They hold more paint than pans and It’s tougher to tip over a bucket.

A bucket also lets you box, or mix, two or three cans of paint to avoid color discrepancies. To use a bucket and grid, dip the roller a quarter of the way into the paint and run it over the ramp to work the paint into the nap.

Work with a painter’s rod
A painter’s rod, or pole, can help you paint ceilings more quickly — no climbing up and down ladders required. And there’s no need to stand directly underneath the area you are painting, so you won’t catch every wayward splatter. A pole is also great for walls and floors.

Buy a better brush
A good paintbrush is key to a professional-looking finish. “A quality brush costs $15 to $25, The equipment has a lot to do with their success. Pay attention to the bristles. Synthetic brushes are made of nylon or polyester, or a combination of the two. Poly bristles are stiffer, which makes them good for exterior or textured work, but for fine interior work, Paintway uses softer nylon brushes. Look also for tapered bristles, which can help you work to an edge, and flagged tips, which help spread the finish smoothly and evenly. Brushes are available in 1- to 4-inch widths. Paintway keep an arsenal on hand to match the job. A smaller brush gives you more control, but no one wants to paint a door with a 1-inch-wide brush, starting with a 2- or 2-1/2-inch sash brush. The angled brush makes it easier to cut to a line and puts more bristles on the work than a square-tipped brush.

Which Paint Do I choose when Painting Your Own Home D.I.Y?

Tricks to finding the right paint type and paint colour.

Which Paint Type Is Right for You?
Flat/Matte

Where to use: Best choice for walls with many imperfections. Use on ceilings and bedroom, dining-room, and living-room walls. Do not use in the kitchen or bathrooms.

Touch-ups and scrubbability: Flat or matte finishes are easy to touch up but hard to clean. Premium flat paint, such as Benjamin Moore Regal Matte Finish or California Paints Super-Scrub Matte Finish, has better washability.

Eggshell

Where to use: This low-sheen finish is a great choice for living-room or bedroom walls. Do not use in high-traffic areas, like hallways, because the delicate finish mars easily.

Touch-ups and scrubbability: Eggshell has a washable finish that can be easily touched up.

Satin

Where to use: With a silky, pearl-like sheen, it’s a good choice for woodwork as well as walls in the family room, children’s rooms, laundry room, kitchen, and bathrooms.

Touch-ups and scrubbability: Satin has a warm finish that’s scrubbable. More difficult to touch up because any difference in sheen will be apparent.

Semigloss

Where to use: Semigloss is a popular choice for trim and moldings, and is also ideal for kitchen and bathroom walls because it is more resistant to humidity and withstands stains, chipping, and scuffing.

Touch-ups and scrubbability: Durable and easy to clean, it’s the most scrubbable sheen for walls. However, semigloss is more difficult to touch up because the difference in sheen may show up more easily.

Gloss

Where to use: Gloss is rarely used on walls because it shows imperfections like a mirror does. It is typically used on woodwork, trim, moldings, and works well only for surfaces that are truly smooth.

Touch-ups and scrubbability: It’s the most durable finish and the easiest to clean, yet is the most difficult to touch up because the difference in sheen may show up more easily.

Hope these tips help you when choosing which product to use 🙂

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How to paint the exterior of your home?

Thought about doing it yourself?

Paintway are giving you a few tips to help you get started.

How to Paint a House Exterior.

Before you begin your exterior house painting project, keep these steps in mind.

Preparing to Paint.

First, remove as many items as you can (planters, mailboxes, shutters, house numbers, hoses, outdoor furniture, light fixtures, etc.). Then be sure to protect any bushes or items that can’t be removed by covering them up with drop cloths. You can also put drop cloths under the areas you plan to paint. Next, be sure to clean (an option is to power wash), repair (fill in holes or cracks with caulk), and prime all surfaces before painting your house’s exterior.

Once the primer coat has dried and all your preparations are complete, you’re ready to paint. Remember to mix your paint thoroughly before you start painting–and continue to stir it during use. Start with the Body of the House (“Fascia”)

When tackling your exterior house painting project, you can paint with either a brush, a roller or, most likely, both. Rolling can save you time, but you will need to use a brush for corners, trim, and doors.

Painting with a Brush.

To load your paintbrush, immerse the first third of the bristles into the paint and tap it lightly against the inside of the can. Try not to drag the bristles across the lip of the can, as this will remove too much paint.

When you apply paint, use long, smooth strokes with your brush. On clapboard surfaces, if paint gathers along the horizontal edge, it has been applied too heavily or not brushed out enough. Remember that for a well-spread, even coat, you should brush oil-based house paints back and forth several times.

Latex paints, however, require less brushing. Because they dry out quickly, excessive brushing can cut deep brush marks into the paint film. When you use latex paints, apply the paint generously with one or two back strokes and then leave it to dry.

.Painting with a Roller.

Applying paint with a roller works well with porous surfaces like masonry and stucco. Ideal for flat surfaces, rollers will not fit into inside corners, and will often deposit too much paint on the edges of outer corners.

To use a paint roller, dip your roller in the paint tray, rolling it back and forth to remove any excess paint. If it drips when you pick it up, it is overloaded. Use long, even strokes, and roll in different directions to coat the entire surface. Finish painting with strokes in one direction.

Painting Trim.

The trim should be the last area you paint. Begin by coating your window sash and door paneling first, and then paint the window frames, sills, and door trim.

If paint gets on the window’s putty line, it will serve to protect the puttied surface from water. To create a clean edge, scrape off any excess paint with a razor blade. If shutters can be removed, paint them separately and replace them when the rest of the job is finished. Then it’s time to admire your work!

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