Are you already starting your Spring Cleaning?

Don’t forget to Give your home a Spring spruce up Also!

Spring is one busy season! We suddenly find great reserves of energy and start cleaning our homes, planting our vegetable gardens, and rearranging our wardrobes with bursts of activity that would put a colony of overachieving worker ants to shame.

These energetic springtime activities are worthwhile, but we think you should squeeze in one more thing at this time of year. It’s a great idea to have a look at the condition of the paint on both the interior and exterior walls of your home. Spring is a perfect time to change colour, with the added bonus of adding another layer or two of protection to your exterior walls just in time for the hot and harsh sunny season. Of course, you’re busy doing other things and we don’t expect you to undertake a major painting project on your own. We’ll do it for you, but it’s up to you to get in touch with us sooner rather than later.

Spring is probably the best time of year for repainting your home. In this climate, the paint dries quickly and forms a perfect base on the surface for top coats. There is less moisture in the air and more daylight hours, so the paint is more likely to stick and the chance of failure decreases. Leaving it till summer to paint, with all that humidity and sticky heat, not to mention frequent downpours during thunder storms, really is a recipe for a less than perfect painting project – and at Paintway , anything less than perfect is just not good enough.

If you have one eye on the real estate market, with the other eye on paint colour charts, then you’re probably aware that the market has peaks and valleys during the year. Spring is considered its high point, so if you’re planning to list your home and take advantage of greater numbers of potential buyers coming into the market, it’s time to act. Paint and spruce up your property now, then schedule an open house…a house that looks brand new, thanks to the transformative effect of a repaint both inside and out.

Whether you’re getting your home ready for market, or just eager for a colourful change of scenery, now is the time do it. Spring’s climate provides optimum painting conditions, and perfect results. When it comes to choosing colours, companies like Dulux and Taubmans will give you plenty of inspiration and ideas by showcasing the latest colour trends, and we can advise you as well.

We’re experienced in selecting the best product, colour and finish for your unique needs and purpose. And although we specialise in Queenslander style homes, there’s nothing we can’t paint. So, go ahead and pick our brains! But do it soon. A spring repaint is bigger than a spring clean, so get in before the rush and enjoy a new-look home this summer.

Are you already starting your Spring Cleaning?

Don’t forget to Give your home a Spring spruce up Also!

Welcome to 2017!

We hope you had a wonderful Christmas ?? and looking forward to a rewarding New Year２０１７.

Visitors and Families have left and now is a common time for us to look around the home and decide that our most treasured asset, sure does need a good paint!. Especially when the kids/grandkids have left there fingerprints of love all over our walls and floors..and Rufus the dog or Millie the cat has decided that there have been some spots left to rub up against, scratch or move themselves onto…If you are looking at tackling some of the Painting yourself, we would like to give you some simple hacks to getting started…Not about “how to” paint but more of how to make preparation and clean up a little bit more smoother? with a paint tip or ２?

Ⓐ. Paint in an empty room.
Take as much of the furniture and other items out of a room as possible. Larger pieces can be moved to the center of the room and covered. Paint can often splatter as you are painting and the last thing you want is paint splatters on your furniture.

Ⓑ. Remove hardware.
If you are painting the whole room you will want to remove the electrical outlet plates, light switches, etc. You could always cover them with tape but it’s much easier and you get a cleaner look if you remove them while painting.

Ⓒ. Invest in Drop Cloths.
The good kind, not a cheap fabric one! You want a sturdy drop cloth which will prevent paint from soaking through onto your floors.

Ⓓ. Prep the Surface.
You will want to start with a clean slate right? This means sanding, scraping, and patching. You will want to fill in every hole, crack, dent, or uneven surface. This also means sweeping away all those cobwebs in your corners of the floor and ceiling.

Ⓔ. Paint with Primer.
Tint your primer. Anytime that your a painting over another color it’s a good idea to use primer. Why paint the surface twice, once with primer and again with paint when you can tint your primer. By tinting your primer you will often be able to finish after just one coat. For the ladies…its the same when you apply primer before the foundation, it makes it last longer and also helps mask imperfections.

Ⓕ. Use High Quality Painter’s Tape.
You may be tempted to purchase the cheap stuff but it will pay off in the long run if you purchase a higher quality masking tape. It also helps you have an even line and prevents the paint from running onto another surface.

Paint In Order 1.2.3.4….

It may seem obvious, but it’s important to paint a room in the right order. Even the best painters using the best paints have drips, splatter and occasional spills. Make sure you try to follow the painting order below.⬇

1. Ceilings

Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the ceiling where it meets the wall. Using a roller with an extension pole, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.

2. Walls

Paint a 2-inch strip along ceiling, floor and woodwork with a brush. Use a roller, coming as close to the edges as possible to create a clean, uniform appearance.

3. Woodwork

Paint all trim around doors, windows, ceilings and floor.

4. Floor

Start in a corner diagonally opposite the room exit. Paint a 2-inch wide strip on the floor where it meets the wall or trim. Using a roller with an extension pole or a wide brush, start in a corner and work across the short side to maintain a wet edge.

8. Use The Right Brush or Roller.

Not all paintbrushes are created equal! Whether you are painting ceilings, walls, trim, or windows you will want to use the correct brush or roller and a good quality one too!

9. Keep Extra Paint.
If you have extra paint after the job is finished, store the paint to use for touch-ups in the future. It’s also a good idea to write on the can which room the paint is for. If you have painted your living room and dining room two different colors which may appear similar at first glance it helps to have the can labeled so you know you are using the correct paint.

10. Use the Correct Type of Paint.
There are multiple types of paint and they are not all used for the same areas. Take the time to find out the difference between eggshell, flat, satin and semi-gloss. If you are unsure always ask the person mixing your paint. They are usually knowledgeable about the best paint to use for each room of your house.

Here are some Painting Hacks For you to also consider ??

Use a lint roller for more than your clothes.

Use Foil to line your Paint tray for easy cleanup.

Rub some Alcohol over spills on delicate surfaces.

Clean your brushes in Vinegar! Its great for the Environment as well as cost effective!

Cover your paint or brushes with a shower cap! it will stop your paint drying out.

Cover your paint tray with a plastic bag in between breaks to stop the paint drying out

Paintways 7 Simple Steps to Calculate the Amount of Paint Needed for your Painting Project

When wanting to repaint your home, there are a number of things to work out first before that brush ever touches the paint. Once you have found the perfect colour for your living room, the next step in the process is to find what the best paint to use is and how much you will need. Calculating the amount of paint you will need doesn’t have to be difficult, and Paintway’s guide will be able to easily figure out how much you need.

1. Measure up your room

The first thing to do to determine how much paint you will need for your project is to measure all of the walls you want to paint. This is done with a simple calculation to help you quickly find the average amount of paint in litres for a single coat of paint. You will need to measure the surface area of your room, discounting the ceiling and the floor. To do this you should measure all of the walls in your home from ceiling to floor and wall to walls. Add the measurements of the width of your walls multiply them by the height of the room to determine the square metre size of your room.

2. Take into account windows and doors

When measuring the surface area of your room, you may not be painting the ceiling or the windows and the doors, so you need to determine the size of these surface areas and discount them from your calculation. With your square metre number, simply subtract roughly 1.85 square metres from your calculations for your doors, and perform the square metre measurement for your windows to find their size. Simply remove this number from your initial calculation to determine the surface area of your room.

3. Buying the right amount of paint

With your calculation determining the surface area of your room, you are now ready to purchase the right amount of paint – but wait there, it all still depends on how many coats you want to give the walls, as well as the viscosity and type of paint you want to use. On average, a 4 litre bucket of paint will allow you to paint roughly 32 square metres of wall for a single coat.

4. Number of coats
Whilst many people simply paint over the previous colour until it is no longer visible, the best painting services paint has to offer often like to add a primer coat in order to blank the previous pant, as well as paint a tint layer to bring the vibrant colours to life for a more professional look and feel. You will need to calculate how many coats you will need for each room, so test out your walls with a tester pot of the paint of your choice to see how it holds and finishes before purchasing more.

5. Finalising your calculations

When you have determined how many coats of paint you want to put on your walls, and the surface area of your rooms, you will need to divide the paintable surface area of your room by the square metre capacity of a 5 litre tub of paint. If your paint comes in smaller or larger sizes, use this number to determine how many tubs or tins of paint you will require to finish the job properly. If you find that you are short by a little, order a few small tins to make up the difference, but if you find that you will need more, then go for the extra big tub to make sure you can finish with a little spillage into the equation.

6. Using a paint calculator

Using an online paint calculator can be a simple way of quickly getting the amount of paint you will need for the room to be painted. Taking rough guesses is a good way to determine roughly the cost of your painting project, but getting the precise figure is the best way of making sure that you don’t go over budget, or come up short when that special paint you bought at a discount is no longer available.

7. Paint your walls

Painting your walls accordingly will be the best part of your final calculation and will make all of the hard work worth it in the end.

If you are in any doubt about the calculations and price involved in high quality paint, or the types of paint you will need for your particular rooms finishes, don’t hesitate to call Paintway, who will be able to talk you through the process, and give you a solid estimate on the final price for the job done.

We often get asked…”How is the cost of having our House Calculated?” Here is How:

Painting is one of the quickest and easiest ways to give your home’s interior a facelift — and it is one that can produce dramatic results as well. Unfortunately, many homeowners feel overwhelmed when tasked with choosing a lasting color scheme. To avoid getting stuck with a less-than-perfect color choice, they will spend hours studying the subtleties between Smokey Topaz and Roycroft Suede paint swatches, considering the mood they want to create (whimsical? relaxing? modern edge?), and deciding whether to trust their guts or hire an interior decorator to make sure things turn out just right.

Fortunately, interior painting doesn’t have to be that difficult. Most paint stores offer samples that you can take home for a wall test. With these samples, you can paint a few colors in large swaths on your wall to see the how the paint interacts with the room’s natural light. And you can compare it against design elements like pillows or furniture to see whether it will work with your overall decor as well.

Calculating Room Painting Costs

The cost to paint an average size room (10X12) ranges from $380, not including ceilings, trim or cost of the paint. DIY, this can cost between $200-$300. When estimating the cost, Paintway will start with how much paint will be required to complete the job. To know this, we first need to know the size of the area to be covered.

The easiest way to calculate the size of the paintable area is to add together the length of the wall and multiply it by the width of the room from floor to ceiling. The resulting amount is the room’s square footage. This total is a starting point, as it is not all paintable surface. Paintway won’t paint the windows and doors, for example, and they must account for ceiling trim and baseboards as well.

The next step is to subtract the area of the doors and windows — along with the square footage of the trim and baseboards — to get an average. Then, use the same calculation (length x width) on the windows, doors, trim and baseboards, and subtract all of those numbers. The result of this equation is the square footage of the room’s walls. This is your surface area number. We will typically add a little square footage back in to this amount to account for extra paint, which may be required.

Room Painting Cost Factors Here are some other cost factors to consider when it comes to the cost of painting a room:

Size of Room to be Painted

The size of the room to be painted is the most important factor in determining the cost of professional painting. It will take a paintway longer to cover a large room than a small room, and this means higher labor costs in addition to supplies and time. When estimating the paint for such a job, keep in mind that a litre of paint covers about 400 square feet (though the label claims it will cover 450 square feet). You will be charged for the number of paint cans needed, among other factors.

Textured Walls

A textured wall will need more paint than a smooth wall. The texture adds more surface area, even though it doesn’t increase square footage. Determining the additional surface area depends on how much texture there is. Paintway will probably estimate about 300 to 350 additional square feet of paint to account for texture. Factor additional surface area into your square footage calculations when seeking professional estimates.

Speed Factor

The speed with which a paintway can complete the job will determine its final cost, but time is difficult to estimate. Some painters have more experience and cover a wall faster, but some are more methodical and take more time. Most painters should be able to cover about 100 to 120 square feet of flat surface in an hour, unless they are working on a very large wall. Wood or plaster might reduce that amount to 80 to 100 square feet. You should also consider the time required for a first coat to dry before a second coat may be applied. This will add time as well — anywhere from one to 48 hours depending on the paint.

Multiple Rooms or Whole House

If you decide to paint multiple rooms in your home, choose colors that relate to one another without being completely the same — unless uniformity is your goal, of course. Costs may vary based on differences in color, gloss and room size. However, each room will flow depending on the trim’s color — which should all be white or neutral — so they look connected.

A whole-house color scheme presents the same cost factors as painting multiple rooms individually: colors you choose, the gloss, the size of the rooms and time/labor. You can choose to use the same color throughout your entire home to save on money, or you can use a color scheme with the same gloss throughout, though this isn’t recommended for selling purposes.

Interior House Painting Cost Factors

Average Paint Prices

Generally, it will take a minimum of two litres of paint to cover a room. At the highest end, paint will cost anywhere between $30 and $60 per litre and come in three different finishes: flat, semi-gloss or high-gloss. Flat finishes are the least shiny and are best suited for areas requiring frequent cleaning. Semi-gloss finishes are a bit shiny but can also be easily cleaned. A high-gloss finish is stain-resistant and easy to clean. Traditionally, living rooms should be painted with a flat finish to allow the paint to stand out. Glossy finishes should be reserved for hallways, and a semi-gloss is best suited for trim. Invest in pre-primed paint whenever possible. This cuts down on time by combining the layering process.

Almost any paint job will require a primer, which will cost anywhere from $7 to $15 per can. Primer helps the paint to stand out against the underlayer of paint it’s covering, especially if the new paint is lighter than the old coat. You will need at least two cans of primer, if not more, to cover one wall.

Supplies Needed

Paintway will typically provide most of the supplies for a project, but sometimes they will allow you to pay for solely labor if you provide all of the materials yourself. You might decide to do a DIY paint job down the road, in which case having these supplies on-hand will save you time and money. The supplies you should invest in include:

Brushes: Trim and sash brushes for intricate painting, beaver-tail handles on larger brushes for larger surfaces.
Tape: Standard painter’s tape to protect trim and ceilings from droplets.
Drop cloth: To protect floors and furniture from drips.
Paint tray: To keep out only a portion of paint rather than drying out an entire litre.
Paint rollers: A quick way to cover a large portion of a wall in paint.
Ladder: Necessary for reaching high areas (don’t use a chair!).
Small brushes: For touch-ups.

Additional Updates

Consider having your molding, trim and baseboards checked while you have a professional painter in your home. This might be a good time to upgrade or repair any cracks, warps or other issues. Paintway usually touch up or replace these items for an affordable rate, and they may even package such fix-ups with your painting project.

Cost of Painting a Room as a DIY Project

A handy homeowner can buy paint and equipment for about $200 to $300. Don’t forget to factor in the time it will take you to do this yourself though. Depending on the size of the room and how much help you have, this could be a day project or a weekend project.

Here are the general steps to follow when painting a room on your own:

Decide on a color palette: Earth tones and neutrals will cover up marks, scratches and hand prints.
Buy supplies: You will need rollers, brushes and other supplies (see above) in addition to paint and primer.
Remove furniture: Remove all furniture from the room to protect it from drips and avoid trips and falls.
Clean the walls to be painted: Clean with a water and detergent mixture. For any stains, use trisodium phosphate.
Remove outlet covers and switch plates: Remove but don’t paint the sockets or switches. Turn off electricity in the room to avoid an accidental shock.
Outline: Put any painter’s tape over baseboards, trim and edging to avoid drips.
Paint the first coat.
Apply the second coat.
Touch up: Touch up baseboards and ceiling trim as needed. Also touch up any spots on the wall.

Do you have a problem with flaky or cracked ceilings? Read on…..

Problem Ceilings? (Peeling and Flaking Paint)

The most common problem area when it comes to painting is the ceiling. Especially in Bathrooms because of Moisture! Or where we are based here in Toowoomba in the Mountains there can be months of high moisture from being in the Clouds.

There are several problems that can occur on a ceiling to categorise it as a problem area:

Calcimine Paint

Fibros plaster ceilings were originally being painted with calcimine paint. Calcimine paint came in powdered form. It was mixed with water then applied to the ceiling. Once it dried by the water evaporating it left a coat of pigment powder on the surface of the ceiling. Years later the ceiling would have been recoated using a flat plastic paint which resulted in the calcimine pigments and powders sucking all the binders out of the new plastic paint making them unstable. Over the years with extra coats being applied to the surface creating extra pressure as well as gravity doing its job causes the paint to flake.

Incorrect application

In the early 80s where gyprock homes were being built to price and with little knowledge of paints the incorrect application was being used. Painters were applying flat paints straight onto bare gyprock and therefore, the paint was not soaking in like a primer would usually do. This application process becomes unstable over the years as well as more coats being applied over time creating more pressure on the surface and gravity doing its job the result is a problem ceiling which peels and flakes.

Moisture

One of the more common issues with problem ceilings is moisture. There are several reasons why moisture occurs. Moisture from storm damage can release the coating from any ceiling surface causing peeling or blistering paint. Also wet areas in the house such as the kitchen, laundry and bathroom can create moisture. For example in a bathroom with lack of ventilation, steam damage can occur to the coating causing it to flake and peel. Using paint with a higher sheen level may help reduce water absorption which accelerates peeling ceilings.

Style of home

Queensland style homes most commonly have VJ timber ceilings. When flaking occurs on these types of ceilings it is usually due to new acrylic paint being applied over old enamel paint. This occurs because acrylic paint is flexible by nature and the enamel coating is rigid. Therefore over time due to changes in temperature the different paint properties work against each other resulting in the top layer delaminating. To solve this issue the acrylic coating needs to be completely removed followed by using a general purpose undercoat to stabilise the surface before recoating.

The common theme in the above reasons for problem ceilings is PREPARATION, wrong application and the ceilings history. Due to these reasons it is hard for the painting of a ceiling to be done at time. However, no matter how much preparation occurs if the history of the ceiling is problematic it is difficult to treat with a simple paint application.

Movement happens with all homes every 10 years or so…causing joins and cracks to also appear.

Call us today for a free ceiling assessment here:

How Paint Colours Can Actually Change your Life

A small paint colour change can make a huge difference in your space. Paint colours could be used to bring positive energy to every room of the house.

For a couple’s bedroom, you want harmony and romance.

You want to focus on your purples and pinks, or lighter like orchid, What this does is creates harmony and intuitive love. So you would be embracing romance from the standpoint of love and how you are intuiting the person. It’s a fabulous way to approach relationships in the bedroom (literally and metaphorically).

Family spaces speak better in peaches and beiges.

peach-and-beige

These colours will create the awareness of laughter and a sense of family and community, so you’re embracing the whole group in the house,

For accents, you can also do ivory or light blue, but be careful when when using pure whites: You want rooms separated with lines, colours that will move into the arena of change. With ivories you’ll be defining the rooms, creating borders and boundaries.

In a kitchen, you want to encourage health and growth.

Greens are good on cabinets and counters but not on walls, and we suggest mauves, light blues, and aquas as accents. You don’t want to keep much white except for appliances, which are best in silver, white, and other neutrals, White is a static colour, while blues and greens are harmonious and foster growth.

Yellows and greens in a child’s room foster healthy emotional growth

You want the child to grow emotionally, but you don’t want them to focus on emotions in a way that makes them volatile, We suggest yellows and greens and to stay away from colours like red that spark strong excitement but also strong anger.

In a home office, greens and greys foster creative and financial prosperity.

Whenever you want colours for money and success, that’s the green family, That helps you to embrace growth — both financial and personal.

In a single person’s bedroom, blues and greens provide calmness.

Blue gives you an aspect of communication,And what you’re communicating to yourself is a calm, allowing yourself to feel very serene and at one with your own energy. You can also incorporate shades of green, or different patterns that are greens and blue. That speaks to healing and the heart chakra. This is encouraging, and it means they are not going to be single for long, but while they are single they are in a good place. They’ll feel good about themselves.

In a space shared with roommates, tans and browns allow for reason and communication.

Variations on brown or grey in a light hue are best, and not white or black. It allows people to reason. They’re not seeing things in black and white they’re seeing things in detail.

Visit us today at paintway2019.au3.live-preview.net or Visit us on Facebook

Diy A Bookcase! A coat of paint can make a huge difference!

It seems like everyone has at least one old bookcase taking up space in the garage. You resist getting rid of it because you know you’ll have a use for it one of these days.

Fortunately, revamping a tired bookcase isn’t as difficult as you might think. In fact, all you need are a few simple tools, a couple cans of paint and some decorative wood trim to restore that relic to greatness.

It has been dressed in its current shade of pale blue for well over a decade, and it also has about 10 years’ worth of grime covering it from top to bottom.

Start by cleaning your bookcase with a sturdy sponge and a bucket of hot, soapy water. This is absolutely essential to ensure that the new paint adheres. Make sure the shelves are completely dry before moving on.

While it dried, I used my miter saw to cut the trim. I used 2-1/4 in. wide strips of decorative wood trim traditionally used as chair railing. Make sure you purchase enough to entirely surround the opening of the bookcase and allow extra for the 45° angled miter cuts.

After cutting the four strips of trim, I painted the now-completely-dry bookcase using a two-tone technique. I painted the inside and all three shelves with the same color as the wall in the room, a soft silver gray. I painted the outside with a semi-glossy white used for trim.

Because both colors merge seamlessly with the existing colors in the room, the bookcase will serve as an unobtrusive addition to the space that will stand out rather than stick out. But because it’s dressed up beyond that of your typical bookcase, it will enhance the aesthetic appeal of the room while it serves an all-important storage function!

After the outside white paint was dry, I laid the bookcase down on its back to make attaching the trim to the front easier. You can do this step manually using thin finishing nails and a hammer, or you can do what I did and attach them using a brad nailer.

Fit the pieces together like a picture frame in each of the corners and nail them in place. Don’t worry about the joint gap at this point because the paint will fill in any spaces to the point that you won’t even notice it once the bookcase is finished.

While the bookcase was still positioned on its back, I applied a couple of coats of the semi-gloss white to the new trim.

The final result is something that looks like it came from a high-end furniture store. And you would never guess by looking that it didn’t come pre-assembled with the outer trim already attached!

Don’t shy away from using leftover paint samples. I was able to employ the remainder of the original paint sample I used to test out the room’s wall color about a year ago. Because it comes in a satin finish, it will adhere to the furniture very well while adding a subtle surface sheen to elevate the look beyond that of a basic flat paint.

And all that’s left now is to stage the shelves. For the most professional looking result, avoid loading it up! In other words, only place items on it that serve a decorative or functional purpose or that you will actually use. Do your best to balance out the shelves and spread out your items evenly between sides; consider staggering them so that the right or left side isn’t more heavily stocked than the other.

Visit us today at Paintway Toowoomba

How to revive a old Kitchen with a Fresh Coat of Paint

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets
Many old homes have a recurring issue with a claustrophobic kitchen. Dark wood paneling on the cabinets combined with a ’70s paint job makes the whole room feel enclosed, dark and stuffy. Sometimes even a nice window refuses to let in enough light to brighten up the place. In these cases, it is amazing what a little paint can do. Coat your cabinets with a light colored paint and suddenly the space feels much more open and airy.

Step 1: Make Decisions

You probably won’t be able to take one look at your cabinets and decide what paint color you want. Do you go for a pastel shade of blue or green? Is a yellow shade more appropriate for the rest of your decor? Bring home a set of sample paint swatches and picture what the room will look like primarily in that color. If you have talent with a computer graphics program, you can even attempt to simulate it.

Once you have decided on your color, you can also decide on your hardware. Do you want to keep the old drawer handles and hinges, or will you update to a more modern set? Be aware that new hardware might not be able to use the same holes as the current hardware, so you may need to adapt to different spacing.

Step 2: Prepare

Buy your paint. Buy your hardware. Buy your paint supplies, including any brushes and small rollers you want. A pair of small rollers and a pair of angle-tipped brushes should be plenty. Pick up a drop cloth to paint on. They only cost a couple of dollars and they serve quite well for this and other house painting projects. For kitchen cabinets, you will probably want a latex paint with a semi-gloss finish. This makes a nice resistant surface for later cleaning. You can always bring a detached door to the hardware store and ask the people who work there what kind of paint they recommend.

Once you have all of your supplies, remove all of the hardware from your cabinets. This includes the hinges, so you will be removing the doors as you go. Store all of the hinges and handles in a single bag so you never lose a piece. Once all the doors are loose and the cabinet frames exposed, it’s time to clean. In all likelihood, years of grease and grime have built up on these wooden surfaces. Take some grease-cutting soap and scrub them clean.

Step 3: Preparing the Surface

If you chose to go with new hardware, you may have discovered that it doesn’t quite fit in the old holes. You will need a tube of wood filler from your local hardware store to patch the old holes. When you’re painting cabinets like this, you won’t need to worry about matching the shade of the wood too closely. This is also the time to patch any annoying gouges and dings on the cabinets themselves. This way you’ll have a nice smooth surface once the paint is applied.

Examine the surface of your cabinets. Is it shiny? Chances are it is covered with layers of protective polyurethane. If you need help deciding whether to sand, feel the surface. Is it matte and slightly absorbent like a good cutting board? It’s probably fine without sanding. Does it feel more like a piece of plastic? Chances are you should sand it. If they are already painted, see if you can determine how old the paint is. Old paint might contain lead, and it’s best to remove it before you paint over it. Be careful! Lead paint is a health hazard, and sanding will get particles of it everywhere.

Step 4: Prime Everything

Even though you have already cleaned and sanded your cabinets, there still may be years-old grease stains deep in the wood. Don’t worry about sanding them out. Primer paint is designed specifically to hide these kinds of things. You will probably want to go for an oil-based primer, because grease stains have been known to seep through water-based paints and show on the new surface. One coat of oil-based primer should work perfectly for your cabinets.

Using a small paint roller, apply primer to the cabinets. You can use a small brush to work the paint into smaller grooves and patterns that the roller won’t reach. One coat should be plenty. Your primer is only there to cover the majority of any color, pattern and stain underneath. It serves to prime the surface for the actual paint later on. Once you have applied the primer, go ahead and let it dry for a couple of hours. Don’t worry about cleaning out the roller and brush — oil-based primer is hard to clean. Save the tools for any later house painting projects you may have.

Step 5: Painting

The primer should be tacky but dry by now. You can do the majority of your painting with a small roller, using your brush sparingly. This helps minimize the texture difference caused by brushstrokes and helps you paint more quickly. You will want to wait for the first coat to dry before applying the second coat. It is entirely possible, if you started early, to finish priming and painting cabinets in the space of a day.

The process of painting is where all the fun is. You get to see your chosen color displayed for the world on your cabinets and drawers. Use a steady hand to roll on paint in even strokes. Your roller is perfect for most of the cabinets and doors. It will let you easily cover the flat surfaces. For smaller crevices and grooves in the wood, use a small brush with an angled tip. The angle will help you work paint into the small grooves and corners without leaving large drops pooling in small recesses.

Did you plan to paint the inside of the cabinet doors? If so, do the inside first. You should let the primer and paint dry for several days before flipping them over to paint the outside. You do the inside first so that if anything goes wrong when you flip it, the mistakes are mostly hidden. You wait several days so the paint has had time to solidify and can resist damage.

Step 6: Finishing Up

Paintway advise you to wait for at least three days before hanging your doors once more. This gives the paint plenty of time to dry and harden. Five days is best for the most safety.

If you’re using old hardware, simply reattach it where it was before and replace everything. If you’re using new hardware, you will need to drill fresh pilot holes for the new screws. Make sure you follow the old construction adage. Measure twice, cut — or drill — once. Even taking your time, this will only take an hour or so. Finally, with your freshly painted doors hung once more, you can enjoy your new kitchen

Considerations to Make If you are going to Paint your own Home.

Painting the whole outside of your house is a major job. But your home may not need a whole paint job. You may be able to spiff up the appearance of your home and extend the life of an entire paint job by several years with regular maintenance and some quick repairs. Whether you decide to paint a porch, the most weathered side of your house, or an outbuilding or two, the general process is the same as painting your whole house.

You’ll need to clean and prep the surface, decide what type of paint to use, and apply the paint. The best time to paint is in late spring or early Autumn on a dry day that is not too sunny. Temperatures below 40 degrees F and direct hot sun can ruin paint jobs. Inspect your house thoroughly before you paint, and take corrective action to prevent the root causes of paint failure.

We’ll hit on all the basics of exterior painting in his article, starting in this first section with how to deal with various paint problems.

Peeling

Peeling is often the result of painting over wet wood. It can also result from moisture within the house pushing its way out. If you cannot control the moisture with exhaust fans, use latex primer and latex paint. Latex allows some moisture to pass right through the paint.

Another cause of peeling is a dirty or a glossy surface. To undo the damage, all loose paint flakes must be scraped off with a wire brush and the surface must be sanded to smooth sharp edges. Bare spots should be primed before painting.

Alligatoring

This problem looks just like its name suggests: the hide of an alligator. Paint shrinks into individual islands, exposing the previous surface, usually because the top coat is not adhering to the paint below. Perhaps the paints are not compatible or the second coat was applied before the first coat had dried. To get rid of this problem, scrape off the old paint and then sand, prime, and repaint the surface.

Blistering

Paint that rises from the surface and forms blisters is usually due to moisture or improper painting. To fix the problem, first scrape off the blisters. If you can see dry wood behind them, the problem is due to moisture. If you find paint, then it is a solvent blister and is probably caused by painting with an oilbase or alkyd-base coating in hot weather. The heat forms a skin on the paint and traps solvent in a bubble.

Wrinkling

New paint can run and sag into a series of slack, skinlike droops. This occurs when the paint you are using is too thick and forms a surface film over the still-liquid paint below. It can also happen if you paint in cold weather; the cold surface slows drying underneath. To recoat, make sure the new paint is the proper consistency and be sure to brush it out as you apply. Before doing this, though, you will have to sand the wrinkled area smooth and, if necessary, remove the paint altogether.

Chalking

This is paint that has a dusty surface. Some oilbase and alkyd-base paints are designed to “chalk” when it rains. When this happens, a very fine powdery layer is removed, automatically cleaning the surface. In most cases, this is desirable. But if foundations, sidewalks, and shrubs become stained, too much chalking is occurring.

This is likely due to painting over a too-porous surface that has absorbed too much of the paint’s binding agents. A chemical imbalance in an inferior paint may also be the cause of excessive chalking. The best solution is to wash down the chalking surfaces as thoroughly as possible, then paint over them with a nonchalking paint.

Mildew

This moldy growth appears where dampness and shade prevail. And, if you paint over it, it’s likely to come right through the new paint. Use a fungicide such as chlorine bleach or a commercial solution to kill patches of mildew before repainting.

Running Sags

Using a paintbrush incorrectly (e.g., too much paint on the brush) can create a wavy, irregular surface. To correct it after the paint is dry, sand and repaint surface, smoothing out the new coat to an even thickness.

Paint Won’t Dry

This is perhaps the best reason to buy high-quality paint. Prolonged tackiness is an indication of inferior paint. If you apply poor-quality paint too thickly or during high humidity, it will stay tacky for a long time. Good paint, on the other hand, dries quickly. If you think you may have an inferior paint, first experiment on an inconspicuous portion of the house.

Think you’re ready to get started? If not contact paintway today for a free quote 🙂

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