Paintways 7 Simple Steps to Calculate the Amount of Paint Needed for your Painting Project

When wanting to repaint your home, there are a number of things to work out first before that brush ever touches the paint. Once you have found the perfect colour for your living room, the next step in the process is to find what the best paint to use is and how much you will need. Calculating the amount of paint you will need doesn’t have to be difficult, and Paintway’s guide will be able to easily figure out how much you need.

1. Measure up your room

The first thing to do to determine how much paint you will need for your project is to measure all of the walls you want to paint. This is done with a simple calculation to help you quickly find the average amount of paint in litres for a single coat of paint. You will need to measure the surface area of your room, discounting the ceiling and the floor. To do this you should measure all of the walls in your home from ceiling to floor and wall to walls. Add the measurements of the width of your walls multiply them by the height of the room to determine the square metre size of your room.

2. Take into account windows and doors

When measuring the surface area of your room, you may not be painting the ceiling or the windows and the doors, so you need to determine the size of these surface areas and discount them from your calculation. With your square metre number, simply subtract roughly 1.85 square metres from your calculations for your doors, and perform the square metre measurement for your windows to find their size. Simply remove this number from your initial calculation to determine the surface area of your room.

3. Buying the right amount of paint

With your calculation determining the surface area of your room, you are now ready to purchase the right amount of paint – but wait there, it all still depends on how many coats you want to give the walls, as well as the viscosity and type of paint you want to use. On average, a 4 litre bucket of paint will allow you to paint roughly 32 square metres of wall for a single coat.

4. Number of coats
Whilst many people simply paint over the previous colour until it is no longer visible, the best painting services paint has to offer often like to add a primer coat in order to blank the previous pant, as well as paint a tint layer to bring the vibrant colours to life for a more professional look and feel. You will need to calculate how many coats you will need for each room, so test out your walls with a tester pot of the paint of your choice to see how it holds and finishes before purchasing more.

5. Finalising your calculations

When you have determined how many coats of paint you want to put on your walls, and the surface area of your rooms, you will need to divide the paintable surface area of your room by the square metre capacity of a 5 litre tub of paint. If your paint comes in smaller or larger sizes, use this number to determine how many tubs or tins of paint you will require to finish the job properly. If you find that you are short by a little, order a few small tins to make up the difference, but if you find that you will need more, then go for the extra big tub to make sure you can finish with a little spillage into the equation.

6. Using a paint calculator

Using an online paint calculator can be a simple way of quickly getting the amount of paint you will need for the room to be painted. Taking rough guesses is a good way to determine roughly the cost of your painting project, but getting the precise figure is the best way of making sure that you don’t go over budget, or come up short when that special paint you bought at a discount is no longer available.

7. Paint your walls

Painting your walls accordingly will be the best part of your final calculation and will make all of the hard work worth it in the end.

If you are in any doubt about the calculations and price involved in high quality paint, or the types of paint you will need for your particular rooms finishes, don’t hesitate to call Paintway, who will be able to talk you through the process, and give you a solid estimate on the final price for the job done.

How to Paint A Metal Surface?

When you’re renovating, the devil is in the detail. Taking the time to restore and protect your metalwork can add the perfect finishing touch to your home.

Before you get started, you’ll need to prep your surface. Remove any rust, loose, flaking or peeling paint with a wire brush or coarse sandpaper.
Next, clean the surface with A Brush Thinner to remove any grease, oils and dirt. Once clean, be sure to wipe the brush thinner off the surface with a cloth.
With a clean metal surface ready to go, it’s time to prime. Different metal surfaces require different primers, so be sure to choose the right one.New or Painted Galvanised Iron or Zincalume: RFU Etch Primer
All other New or Painted metal surfaces: Metalshield All Surface Primer

Steel, wrough iron and damaged galvanized iron under severe corrosive conditions: Metalshield Gold Galv Primer
Once you’ve found the appropriate primer, stir it thoroughly with a broad, flat stirrer using a lifting action. Then load up your brush and apply a single, even coat.
Once your primer is dry, it’s time to paint and protect your metal. To ensure your handy work is protected against rust, corrosion and the elements we recommend using Metalshield Premium Topcoat.
Apply one clean, even coat and leave it to cure for 24 hours before applying a second coat. Wrap your brush or roller in cling wrap to prevent them drying out while you wait. Leave the final coat to dry for 3 hours before handling.for hard to reach or detailed projects, use a Metalshield spraypaks.
New, bare steel, wrought iron and pre-painted surfaces don’t need to be primed. Simply give them a clean as above, and then paint with your chosen tint of Metalshield Epoxy Enamel.

Does your home tell a story?

Look around the rooms in your home and you’ll probably pick up on a theme (or two). Perhaps you’re gazing out at a sea of blues and greens—or a spectrum of sunset shades. Paint colour is an expression of your personality,We branch out occasionally, but most of us have a proclivity for certain types of shades. Read on to discover the meaning behind your favourites and tips for creating looks everyone can live with.

If You Gravitate to Soft, Warm Shades…༆Associated with sunshine and roaring fires, yellow and orange (and close cousins peach and pink) have a cheerful, welcoming personality. And most likely, so do you. People who use warm tones tend to be friendly and nurturing—they love having others over, The fuzzy feeling we get from these colours isn’t just symbolic. Because of their brightness, warm shades appear to spring forward, literally making a room feel more intimate; cool hues, on the other hand, seem to recede, expanding a space.

The luminous quality of the colours is also energising, stimulating conversation and appetites, Still, to some, warm can be cloying:

If You Gravitate to Soft, Cool Hues…༆Most reactions to colour come about because of what’s around us in nature, So there are certain universal truths. In studies, people tend to associate pale to medium blues, lavenders, and greens with the sky, a body of water or wide-open field—elements we perceive as being tranquil and soothing. And because mild, cool shades have a lower intensity than warm or bright ones, they are literally easier on the eyes.

If you are drawn to blues and their brethren, you probably view your home as an oasis of calm in a hectic world. You may also be a bit of an introvert. To prevent watery shades from feeling chilly, paintway suggests balancing them with hints of yellow, orange, or brown in your furniture and accessories.

If You Gravitate to Jewel Tones…༆Colours that seem plucked from the red carpet night—ruby, emerald, sapphire, amethyst, topaz—lend instant va-va-voom. Like the celebrities who turn heads in those hues, you are probably outgoing, confident and creative. People who choose these colours want to feel inspired by their environments; they thrive on the stimulation,The brilliant, concentrated colours are wonderful at minimising flaws: They can make a room without much architectural interest feel glamorous, create intimacy in an imposing space and play up the coziness in a small room.

If you paint a tiny bathroom navy blue, it will seem dark and confining, but sapphire has a dynamic, enveloping effect—it has to do with the brightness of the colour.To keep things feeling cohesive, not chaotic, pair jewel tones with neutrals or colours that have a similar intensity. Love the shades but wary of using them all over? Paintway suggests starting in places where you don’t spend a ton of time, such as a hallway, powder room, or dining room.

If You Gravitate to Neutrals…༆Like rocks along the coast or monuments of marble or granite, gray, brown, beige, and ivory have a feeling of permanence and a crisp, classic look. If this appeals to you, you are probably even-keeled and practical, and not interested in re-painting your rooms every few years because you’ve tired of the shades, You may also be in on a trade secret: Earthy walls allow you to use more colour in your accessories and furnishings. It’s really smart if you’re a colour person to do a neutral backdrop and let your bright art and objects shine.

If colour isn’t your thing, you can still avoid the most common critique of neutral spaces—they’re “boring”—by working in dark and light tones (say, an ecru sofa and chocolate brown rug) and plenty of texture, Paintway’s advice is to Combine smooth and neutral fabrics with wood, glass, metal, and mirrored surfaces. Playing up contrast keeps a neutral environment from feeling clinical.

Here at Paintway, we are always here to help with any colour selections you may need to make.

How to use a Paint Roller | News – How To

Cover your paint tray with a plastic bag in between breaks to stop the paint drying out. — Cover your paint tray with a plastic bag in between breaks to stop the paint drying out

Rolling Paint is not quite as easy as it seems. Knowing how to use a paint roller is a fundamental part of how to paint and therefore should be one of the first things you learn how to do before you start your DIY painting project.

Choose a quality roller:

It is important to choose a quality roller over price as a good quality sleeve will hold more paint which therefore allows you to paint a room faster. If you are using a roller for the first time we recommend a 230mm roller.

The length of the pile known as the nap is important to consider. The reason this is so important is due to different surfaces requiring different lengths e.g. a smoother surface requires a shorter nap. We recommend using a 5-6mm nap when applying oil based paint to a smooth surface. We recommend using a 12mm nap for water based paints on smooth surfaces such as walls and ceilings.

Be sure to check the product packaging you are using for the best roller recommendations

Preparing to use your roller:
For oil based paints use turps to moisten the roller and for water based paints use water.

Use a piece of scrap timber or butchers paper to get rid of any excess moisture on your roller. It is important not to use newspaper to get rid of excess moisture as the roller can pick up the ink.

Loading your roller:
To ensure the roller is evenly covered dip it in the paint try turning the roller.

To evenly distribute the paint roll it over the rigid part of the tray a few times without plunging it back into the pool of paint. Do not overload the roller as it will cause it to drip or slide.

Applying paint using your roller:
By painting 1-2 metre stripes at a time it will be most effective. Your first stroke should be up as if you roll down first the paint will cause a puddle under the roller. Do not move the roller too quickly as it may cause a spray.

Start as if you are painting a large M, W or backward N then fill in the blanks with horizontal or vertical zigzag strokes. Finish off by rolling gently top to bottom with the roller nearly dry

As you move across the wall repeat this process. If you want to break wait until you get to a corner and don’t stop painting until the wall is complete.

For the ceiling it is best to finish off near a light source such as a window.

Taking care of your roller:
Before you wash your roller scrape any excess paint off by using a putty knife or scraping tool with a semicircular cut out in the blade.

Wash the roller in warm water and detergent if using water based paints or use a solvent as specified on the can for any oil based paints.

Rinse the roller and squeeze it out until the water or solvent is clear and allow the roller to dry naturally.

Best of luck in your DIY Painting Project??

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Diy A Bookcase! A coat of paint can make a huge difference!

It seems like everyone has at least one old bookcase taking up space in the garage. You resist getting rid of it because you know you’ll have a use for it one of these days.

Fortunately, revamping a tired bookcase isn’t as difficult as you might think. In fact, all you need are a few simple tools, a couple cans of paint and some decorative wood trim to restore that relic to greatness.

It has been dressed in its current shade of pale blue for well over a decade, and it also has about 10 years’ worth of grime covering it from top to bottom.

Start by cleaning your bookcase with a sturdy sponge and a bucket of hot, soapy water. This is absolutely essential to ensure that the new paint adheres. Make sure the shelves are completely dry before moving on.

While it dried, I used my miter saw to cut the trim. I used 2-1/4 in. wide strips of decorative wood trim traditionally used as chair railing. Make sure you purchase enough to entirely surround the opening of the bookcase and allow extra for the 45° angled miter cuts.

After cutting the four strips of trim, I painted the now-completely-dry bookcase using a two-tone technique. I painted the inside and all three shelves with the same color as the wall in the room, a soft silver gray. I painted the outside with a semi-glossy white used for trim.

Because both colors merge seamlessly with the existing colors in the room, the bookcase will serve as an unobtrusive addition to the space that will stand out rather than stick out. But because it’s dressed up beyond that of your typical bookcase, it will enhance the aesthetic appeal of the room while it serves an all-important storage function!

After the outside white paint was dry, I laid the bookcase down on its back to make attaching the trim to the front easier. You can do this step manually using thin finishing nails and a hammer, or you can do what I did and attach them using a brad nailer.

Fit the pieces together like a picture frame in each of the corners and nail them in place. Don’t worry about the joint gap at this point because the paint will fill in any spaces to the point that you won’t even notice it once the bookcase is finished.

While the bookcase was still positioned on its back, I applied a couple of coats of the semi-gloss white to the new trim.

The final result is something that looks like it came from a high-end furniture store. And you would never guess by looking that it didn’t come pre-assembled with the outer trim already attached!

Don’t shy away from using leftover paint samples. I was able to employ the remainder of the original paint sample I used to test out the room’s wall color about a year ago. Because it comes in a satin finish, it will adhere to the furniture very well while adding a subtle surface sheen to elevate the look beyond that of a basic flat paint.

And all that’s left now is to stage the shelves. For the most professional looking result, avoid loading it up! In other words, only place items on it that serve a decorative or functional purpose or that you will actually use. Do your best to balance out the shelves and spread out your items evenly between sides; consider staggering them so that the right or left side isn’t more heavily stocked than the other.

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How to revive a old Kitchen with a Fresh Coat of Paint

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets
Many old homes have a recurring issue with a claustrophobic kitchen. Dark wood paneling on the cabinets combined with a ’70s paint job makes the whole room feel enclosed, dark and stuffy. Sometimes even a nice window refuses to let in enough light to brighten up the place. In these cases, it is amazing what a little paint can do. Coat your cabinets with a light colored paint and suddenly the space feels much more open and airy.

Step 1: Make Decisions

You probably won’t be able to take one look at your cabinets and decide what paint color you want. Do you go for a pastel shade of blue or green? Is a yellow shade more appropriate for the rest of your decor? Bring home a set of sample paint swatches and picture what the room will look like primarily in that color. If you have talent with a computer graphics program, you can even attempt to simulate it.

Once you have decided on your color, you can also decide on your hardware. Do you want to keep the old drawer handles and hinges, or will you update to a more modern set? Be aware that new hardware might not be able to use the same holes as the current hardware, so you may need to adapt to different spacing.

Step 2: Prepare

Buy your paint. Buy your hardware. Buy your paint supplies, including any brushes and small rollers you want. A pair of small rollers and a pair of angle-tipped brushes should be plenty. Pick up a drop cloth to paint on. They only cost a couple of dollars and they serve quite well for this and other house painting projects. For kitchen cabinets, you will probably want a latex paint with a semi-gloss finish. This makes a nice resistant surface for later cleaning. You can always bring a detached door to the hardware store and ask the people who work there what kind of paint they recommend.

Once you have all of your supplies, remove all of the hardware from your cabinets. This includes the hinges, so you will be removing the doors as you go. Store all of the hinges and handles in a single bag so you never lose a piece. Once all the doors are loose and the cabinet frames exposed, it’s time to clean. In all likelihood, years of grease and grime have built up on these wooden surfaces. Take some grease-cutting soap and scrub them clean.

Step 3: Preparing the Surface

If you chose to go with new hardware, you may have discovered that it doesn’t quite fit in the old holes. You will need a tube of wood filler from your local hardware store to patch the old holes. When you’re painting cabinets like this, you won’t need to worry about matching the shade of the wood too closely. This is also the time to patch any annoying gouges and dings on the cabinets themselves. This way you’ll have a nice smooth surface once the paint is applied.

Examine the surface of your cabinets. Is it shiny? Chances are it is covered with layers of protective polyurethane. If you need help deciding whether to sand, feel the surface. Is it matte and slightly absorbent like a good cutting board? It’s probably fine without sanding. Does it feel more like a piece of plastic? Chances are you should sand it. If they are already painted, see if you can determine how old the paint is. Old paint might contain lead, and it’s best to remove it before you paint over it. Be careful! Lead paint is a health hazard, and sanding will get particles of it everywhere.

Step 4: Prime Everything

Even though you have already cleaned and sanded your cabinets, there still may be years-old grease stains deep in the wood. Don’t worry about sanding them out. Primer paint is designed specifically to hide these kinds of things. You will probably want to go for an oil-based primer, because grease stains have been known to seep through water-based paints and show on the new surface. One coat of oil-based primer should work perfectly for your cabinets.

Using a small paint roller, apply primer to the cabinets. You can use a small brush to work the paint into smaller grooves and patterns that the roller won’t reach. One coat should be plenty. Your primer is only there to cover the majority of any color, pattern and stain underneath. It serves to prime the surface for the actual paint later on. Once you have applied the primer, go ahead and let it dry for a couple of hours. Don’t worry about cleaning out the roller and brush — oil-based primer is hard to clean. Save the tools for any later house painting projects you may have.

Step 5: Painting

The primer should be tacky but dry by now. You can do the majority of your painting with a small roller, using your brush sparingly. This helps minimize the texture difference caused by brushstrokes and helps you paint more quickly. You will want to wait for the first coat to dry before applying the second coat. It is entirely possible, if you started early, to finish priming and painting cabinets in the space of a day.

The process of painting is where all the fun is. You get to see your chosen color displayed for the world on your cabinets and drawers. Use a steady hand to roll on paint in even strokes. Your roller is perfect for most of the cabinets and doors. It will let you easily cover the flat surfaces. For smaller crevices and grooves in the wood, use a small brush with an angled tip. The angle will help you work paint into the small grooves and corners without leaving large drops pooling in small recesses.

Did you plan to paint the inside of the cabinet doors? If so, do the inside first. You should let the primer and paint dry for several days before flipping them over to paint the outside. You do the inside first so that if anything goes wrong when you flip it, the mistakes are mostly hidden. You wait several days so the paint has had time to solidify and can resist damage.

Step 6: Finishing Up

Paintway advise you to wait for at least three days before hanging your doors once more. This gives the paint plenty of time to dry and harden. Five days is best for the most safety.

If you’re using old hardware, simply reattach it where it was before and replace everything. If you’re using new hardware, you will need to drill fresh pilot holes for the new screws. Make sure you follow the old construction adage. Measure twice, cut — or drill — once. Even taking your time, this will only take an hour or so. Finally, with your freshly painted doors hung once more, you can enjoy your new kitchen

Considerations to Make If you are going to Paint your own Home.

Painting the whole outside of your house is a major job. But your home may not need a whole paint job. You may be able to spiff up the appearance of your home and extend the life of an entire paint job by several years with regular maintenance and some quick repairs. Whether you decide to paint a porch, the most weathered side of your house, or an outbuilding or two, the general process is the same as painting your whole house.

You’ll need to clean and prep the surface, decide what type of paint to use, and apply the paint. The best time to paint is in late spring or early Autumn on a dry day that is not too sunny. Temperatures below 40 degrees F and direct hot sun can ruin paint jobs. Inspect your house thoroughly before you paint, and take corrective action to prevent the root causes of paint failure.

We’ll hit on all the basics of exterior painting in his article, starting in this first section with how to deal with various paint problems.

Peeling

Peeling is often the result of painting over wet wood. It can also result from moisture within the house pushing its way out. If you cannot control the moisture with exhaust fans, use latex primer and latex paint. Latex allows some moisture to pass right through the paint.

Another cause of peeling is a dirty or a glossy surface. To undo the damage, all loose paint flakes must be scraped off with a wire brush and the surface must be sanded to smooth sharp edges. Bare spots should be primed before painting.

Alligatoring

This problem looks just like its name suggests: the hide of an alligator. Paint shrinks into individual islands, exposing the previous surface, usually because the top coat is not adhering to the paint below. Perhaps the paints are not compatible or the second coat was applied before the first coat had dried. To get rid of this problem, scrape off the old paint and then sand, prime, and repaint the surface.

Blistering

Paint that rises from the surface and forms blisters is usually due to moisture or improper painting. To fix the problem, first scrape off the blisters. If you can see dry wood behind them, the problem is due to moisture. If you find paint, then it is a solvent blister and is probably caused by painting with an oilbase or alkyd-base coating in hot weather. The heat forms a skin on the paint and traps solvent in a bubble.

Wrinkling

New paint can run and sag into a series of slack, skinlike droops. This occurs when the paint you are using is too thick and forms a surface film over the still-liquid paint below. It can also happen if you paint in cold weather; the cold surface slows drying underneath. To recoat, make sure the new paint is the proper consistency and be sure to brush it out as you apply. Before doing this, though, you will have to sand the wrinkled area smooth and, if necessary, remove the paint altogether.

Chalking

This is paint that has a dusty surface. Some oilbase and alkyd-base paints are designed to “chalk” when it rains. When this happens, a very fine powdery layer is removed, automatically cleaning the surface. In most cases, this is desirable. But if foundations, sidewalks, and shrubs become stained, too much chalking is occurring.

This is likely due to painting over a too-porous surface that has absorbed too much of the paint’s binding agents. A chemical imbalance in an inferior paint may also be the cause of excessive chalking. The best solution is to wash down the chalking surfaces as thoroughly as possible, then paint over them with a nonchalking paint.

Mildew

This moldy growth appears where dampness and shade prevail. And, if you paint over it, it’s likely to come right through the new paint. Use a fungicide such as chlorine bleach or a commercial solution to kill patches of mildew before repainting.

Running Sags

Using a paintbrush incorrectly (e.g., too much paint on the brush) can create a wavy, irregular surface. To correct it after the paint is dry, sand and repaint surface, smoothing out the new coat to an even thickness.

Paint Won’t Dry

This is perhaps the best reason to buy high-quality paint. Prolonged tackiness is an indication of inferior paint. If you apply poor-quality paint too thickly or during high humidity, it will stay tacky for a long time. Good paint, on the other hand, dries quickly. If you think you may have an inferior paint, first experiment on an inconspicuous portion of the house.

Think you’re ready to get started? If not contact paintway today for a free quote 🙂

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Should I use Primer before I paint?

Using a primer before you paint is a great way to improve the quality of your paint job. You don’t need to prime your surface in all situations, but used properly, a primer can make all the difference.

When You Should Use a Primer?

Priming before you paint isn’t always necessary, although there are occasions when priming your surface can help you achieve a perfect, professional finish.

Here’s when you should prime before you paint:

Your walls are brand new. All new plasterboard needs to be sealed with a primer before it is painted.
If your existing paint job is dry and chalky. Paint becomes chalky as it begins to breakdown. In this case, you’ll need to wash the walls thoroughly, and apply a suitable primer to create a smooth surface for the new paint to adhere to.
If you are painting over oil based paint with acrylic paint. Acrylic paint won’t adhere properly to oil based paint unless an acrylic primer is used.
If you have mended cracks or holes. New plasterboard should be sealed with a primer.If you walls are currently dark, and you want to paint them a light colour. The primer will help cover up the dark hue, so your new, light paint will show up brighter.

The Benefits of Using a Primer….

Painting a primer on your surface is a simple way to improve the finish of your paint job, and make it last longer. In most situations you can achieve better results with one coat of primer and one coat of paint, rather than two coats of paint.

Here are few benefits of priming your walls before you paint:

Priming will ensure your colour is rich and vibrant. Primers can hide the colour you are painting over – even dark reds and blues – so the old colour doesn’t alter the new colour.
Priming will create the ideal surface for paint to adhere to. While paints are rich in pigment, primers are rich in resin. This means paint can cling to primer more effectively than old paint. Primer also evens out your surface, so you can achieve a consistent finish.
Primers can prevent stains. Primers seal the surface, and therefore block out stains so they can’t ruin your paint job.
Primers can increase the longevity of your paint. Primers can help prevent peeling, cracking and blistering. They will also ensure the paint colour doesn’t fade.

What type of Paint Should You Use In Your Home?

When painting your home, using the right paint is important if you want the job to look professionally .There are many different kinds of paint: latex, oil based, semi-gloss, flat and chalkboard. Each of these has different meanings and uses. Do you know which paint goes on what surface? Here are some tips about getting it right.

Ceilings:
Ceilings are usually painted with a flat paint. You will see that there are many paints formulated specifically for ceilings. Painting ceilings can be problematic in that it can be hard to see where you have painted and where you still need to paint, so ceiling paints often have a tint to them that disappears when the paint dries. A flat finish is a good way to hide any irregularities in the surface and ceiling paint usually rolls on with very minimal splatter.

Woodwork:
Woodwork and trim is usually painted with a semi-gloss paint. It can be either a latex or oil based paint, but it has a sheen to it once it’s dry. If painting bare wood, you will have to prime it. Semi-gloss paint is easy to clean. You can also use a flat or satin finish, but only where woodwork will have very little wear and tear.

Walls:
Latex is a good choice for walls, and a satin finish is easiest to keep clean. The satin finish has a bit of a sheen, but it isn’t shiny or glossy. Latex paint can be easily applied with brush or roller and you should also prime any previously unpainted surface first.

Metal:
The type of paint you use on metal will depend on the type of metal. You can use latex or oil paint on iron or steel that has been primed first. If painting aluminum or galvanized metal you can paint latex directly without primer, but not oil based paint. That will still need primer first.
(cement, concrete block or brick): If painting masonry of any type, you will need to use an acrylic latex paint designed specifically for masonry.

Floors:
It is unusual to paint floors, but if you are, use a high gloss, acrylic floor enamel specifically designed for floors. This will stand up better to the abrasion of feet, shoes, pet nails and scrubbing.

Chalkboard paint was also mentioned above. This can be used on many surfaces, but also may need primer, depending on the surface.

If still in doubt Always best to leave it to a professional:

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Quick KEY Tips to Paint Your Home…..Follow some of these simple D.I.Y tips

1. Slosh Your Brush Quick KEY Tips to Paint Your Home

Before painting, slosh your brush in whatever solvent you will be using at the end of the day to clean the brush (i.e., water for latex, mineral spirits for oil, etc.) It’ll be easier to clean when you’re done.

2. Wrap Brush or Roller

If you don’t feel like cleaning your brush or roller at the end of the day and expect to get back to painting within a few days–

3. Latex Gloves or Lotion, Your Pick

Latex gloves are great for keeping your hands clean (especially if you’re using oil-based paint!). If you can’t stand latex gloves or are allergic, a thick application of hand lotion before painting will make cleaning a lot easier later on.

4. Wet Edge

Always keep a wet edge as you paint, and work away from that wet edge. If you paint over a dry edge, you will get overlap marks.

5. Avoid Cheap Roller Covers and Brushes

This one is important. Cheap roller covers leave fuzz on the wall. Cheap brushes leave streaky brush marks. Avoid those multi-packs of rollers, ten for a dollar. Pay the extra few cents and get better tools. It’ll be worth it. Honest it will.

6. Test for Loose Paint

Will the existing painted surface take new paint? And hold it for years to come? Test this out by adhering a strip of duct tape to the existing painted surface and…ripping it away. If flakes of paint more than microscopic size come off, you may need to scrape and sand

7. Low-Stick Masking Tape

Also known as “blue tape,” this tape comes off easier and doesn’t peel off primer or existing paint. Blue tape, by itself, will save you at least an hour of frustration over the old-style beige masking tape.

8. Rein in Your Paint Can Opener

Paint can openers, those little metal keys (you do use one, don’t you?) are notorious for getting lost in the shuffle. Chain it to a small chunk of wood just like a public bathroom key. Whatever you do, just don’t lose it!

9. Painting Process

Paint in this order:
Ceiling
Walls
Trim
Cabinets
Doors
And remember to always paint from top-down!