According to Domain more and more Australians are choosing to renovate and these figures have continued to increase during the COVID-19 crisis.

So why should YOU consider painting during this time?

LOW INTEREST RATES.

With record breaking low interest rates currently on offer and with more time spent at home due to self-isolation – Why not start that painting?

The banks are encouraging Australians to spend more on their homes to keep our housing industry alive. Have you been following the interest rate decline?

Let’s be honest, when was the last time you had so much time? With social distancing influencing our every move (and for good reason, let’s not forget that); we no longer have a social life; we are spending more time than ever at home.

Our lives are usually packed with work commitments, social commitments and family commitments. We have great intentions of getting those renovations done, but the family tease is ‘when’.

MARKET.

We find ourselves in very unusual times. COVID-19 has hit the Australian economy and almost every industry within it. No one can gives us an answer as to ‘how long’ as none of us have been here before. However, we have been in housing slumps and we have been in recessions. While we are uncertain of the immediate future, we know from past experiences the housing industry will return.

Like any renovation, it is about weighing up the reason you are renovating, the cost involved, and what you are wanting from the future.

Is this a family home you are investing your time and money in? Is the decision to renovate about making space for your growing family rather than return on investment (ROI) in 12 months?

• Do you need to make your home more accessible? Are you wanting to spend as many years as your can in your current home without having to go into care.
• Are you renovating purely for ROI? What is your timeframe? Are you hoping to live in the home for a few years and sell after these uncertain times are passed?

All of these are excellent reasons to continue renovating during this period.

We have recently given a major make over to A huge amount of Balustrades in a older style home.

Painting previously stained balustrade can prove to be a challenge. Not only with the length of time it can take, (it took us 3 days by hand!) but also with the process of what to paint first. Timber staining can also prove to be an issue, causing unsightly staining on your newly painted stair balustrade.

This post will show you how to prevent the staining issue, paint the balustrade efficiently and the material element of what to use.

Preparation

The secret to decorating is all about preparation. Anyone can put a brush into paint and paint any surface. The secret to it lasting, protecting your surface and staying looking good is proper preparation.

In this instance I used 120 grit Aluminium Oxide glass paper attached to my  sander. This allows for dust free sanding, very important to health and keeping a nice clean job. Don’t go crazy with the sander, just enough to provide a key.

If your balustrade is currently painted with gloss varnish, then you would need provide a stronger key, so more sanding would then be required.

You may also find that the newel posts and ball may be dirty from peoples hands over the years. This will clog up the sand paper very quickly. The best way to sand this is to first use the sander, then a new piece of glass paper and finish the rest of by hand. You can try and wash this down if you so desire, but I find to sand it off easier and more effective

Painting

Apply a primer either using brush, rad roller pipe roller or spray. I opted to paint by hand because it is intricate work but the overall is look is more finished…it does take time. The alternative  is to use a pipe roller as this is also a fast application method.

Priming

Tannin is the technical name for staining that bleeds through paintwork. To prevent tannin, solvent based primers work really well. In the old days, all we had was oil based undercoat. This does 2 jobs for me. Provides a strong adhesion key, dries quickly and because of the solvent borne properties prevents tannin from showing through.

With varnish or stained timber one of the main issues is to make sure the adhesion key is strong. Chipping the top coat off and scratching the top coat will show the dark brown colour through. Strong adhesion primers prevent this.

Any knots on the timber will have to be treated by applying a knot stop solution. If not the knots will show through.

Does that fence Need an update? Here is how you go about it.

What you’ll need:

• A Specialised Paint Colour made to withstand the outside elements in your chosen sheen and colour
• Drop sheets
• Flat paddle paint stirrer
• Wide paint brush
• 10-12mm nap roller and tray
• Medium grit sandpaper
• Damp cloth
• Bucket for cleaning

Get Started:

1. Prepare your fence by removing any bikes, cars or plants that are too close to the area. Brush away any dirt and lay down your drop sheet.
2. Test if the paintwork is in good condition by cutting a small ‘X’ through the existing paint with a sharp blade, press cellulose tape firmly across the cut and then rip off the tape. If the paint comes off, it is unsound and should be removed. If the surface is sound, finish with a light but thorough sand.
3. Make sure to sand back any small areas where the paint has peeled or cracked, and to fill and spot prime any larger holes and defects.
4. Once you’ve sanded your picket fence, you can start painting straight away, Make sure your paint is self-priming on most surfaces.
5. Open and stir your paint thoroughly, before loading your paint brush.
6. To make painting your picket fence a breeze, start by painting the board that runs along the bottom of your fence with your paint brush. Be careful not to pick up any dirt from the ground.
7. Then, paint the valleys where your roller can’t reach.
8. Once you’ve painted all 3 sides of the valley with an even coat, you can use a roller in a vertical up and down motion, to paint the vertical panels.
9. After you’ve finished painting the first coat, wait 2 hours before recoating. Once dry, follow the same process for a second coat. A third coat will need to be applied if the surface is bare timber.

Now – Stand Back and Admire!

Are you considering painting the exterior of your home and want to do it quickly and with efficiency?

Here are some tips to help you start. If you’re not sure whether you’re cut out for the DIY methods then perhaps it’s best to consult with Paintway.

Preparation:

It seems like we bang on about it but PREPARING A SURFACE IS CRUCIAL!  We have written about this in our previous blog – CLICK HERE TO READ ABOUT SURFACE PREPARATION

• You’ll need to clean dust and grime of the surface you’re looking to paint (a pressure washer machine will really do a great job)
• You can also use other utensils which can scrub off any grime or loose paint
• If there is any nails sticking out anywhere on the surface then you need to nail those back in and apply putty.
• All wood NEEDS to be primed – Imperative with Queenslanders
• Make sure if there is any damage on the surface that you fix these up before painting.
• Place down plastic covering on anything you don’t want to be ruined by paint, or use thick old sheets.

Tools You Will Need:

• Paint Roller
• Ladder(possibly)
• Paintbrush and Tray
• Bristle Brush

Application Tips:

• You should always start your painting process from the top and work your way down, this minimises mistakes.
• Avoid painting during hot days and in direct sunlight
• Paint the larger areas before the small corners of crevices, as you want to get large areas painted quickly before any drying occurs.
• You should aim to get at least two coats completed rather than just one thick, one, as you’ll have better coverage with this technique. Having a third coat is perfect.
• Always paint your strokes in the same direction and end the stroke onto already wet paint.

Products:

You can either use oil based paint or latex paint, which have their differences:

• Latex paint will dry faster than oil based paint
• Latex paint is water based
• Oil based paint is easier to get a smooth result but are general more difficult to apply
• Oil based is glossy, whereas latex comes in both matte and gloss

If you want get a specific look or style it’s best to consult with a professional who can guide you towards colours, products and techniques which are in your best interests. Everyone has a different idea regarding what they desire, and so you should find specific instructions that assist your outcome.

Your ceilings can sometimes be overlooked, but with a refreshing colour and a flawless finish you’ll give people a reason to look up and admire your handy work.!

Here are some Tips to help you get started!

*Purchase the Right Tools – purchase a paint roller with an extension handle. It’s much easier and less tiring to paint a ceiling while standing on the floor rather than on a ladder.

When painting a textured ceiling, be sure to use a thick-nap roller to ensure that you get full coverage over the bumps and irregularities in the textured surface. For a smooth ceiling, you can use a roller with a smooth or shorter nap.

Use quick-release painter’s tape to mask around trim and the area of the wall where it meets the ceiling

Begin by cleaning your ceiling. Remove cobwebs with a clean broom and wash the area with Selley’s Original Sugar Soap. It’s true, no one enjoys cleaning but missing this step could lead to trouble later on.

Tape around cornices, edges and any down lights.

Just like a vertical wall, begin by cutting-in where the roller won’t reach. Using a brush, paint around down lights and edges to create a border.

Once you’ve loaded your roller evenly, begin in one corner and move fluidly in a parallel motion. For best results, work in 1 metre sections painting across and then down. Roll as far into the previously brushed sections as possible.

Now that you’ve finished a large section of your ceiling, and while it’s still damp, you can begin laying-off the paint. This is a crucial step in achieving a smooth and consistent finish. Using an unloaded roller begin in the top left corner of your ceiling and gently pull towards you in a straight line with no pressure. A lightness of touch will prevent new brush strokes from forming. Repeat this action and slightly overlap your last movement so your roller rubs away the line created by the previous stroke.

If your ceiling requires two coats, simply wait 2 hours for your first coat to dry then begin at step 4 and re-cut your ceiling.
And you’re done! Simply clean up using responsible paint disposal methods and enjoy your beautiful new ceilings!

So you have decided to give your home a fresh coat of paint! Paintway  have some tips to help you along the way 😀

The temperature of your house affects the performance of paint. The wall temperature can vary from the weather temperature and must be above 10°C and below 35°C throughout the painting process. You should generally avoid painting in extremely hot or cold conditions. If it looks like rain, remember the painter’s rule; if you wouldn’t hang the washing out or wash the car, don’t paint outside.

Using acrylics Paint:

Most acrylics are touch dry in twenty minutes at 25°C and 50% humidity, this means the hottest weather in the summer months will accelerate the drying process. To slow down the drying rate,  Thinners may be added to the paint at the rate of 50ml per litre.

Here are some tips for painting in summer:

• Don’t paint in direct sunlight or onto a hot surface.
• Try to follow the shade where possible.
• You can add up to approx 5% water to your paint to change consistency.
• Use 2 brushes. Keeping one in a bucket of water and alternating them, stops them drying out.
  

Choosing enamels or acrylics for exterior use: We would generally recommend the use of acrylics in exterior situations. As oil based enamels age they become very brittle and chalky and therefore have a tendency to crack and flake off the surface. Acrylics, however, retain their colour better, do not chalk to any great extent and do not become brittle, giving a longer lasting, more durable paint finish.

Preparing the room: If you haven’t already done so, take down curtains, mirrors and pictures. Move lightweight furniture out of the room. Cover remaining furniture with plastic sheets or drop cloths and tape plastic around pendant light fittings. Or if painting outside, tie back plants so you have clear access to the areas to be painted.

Masking Up: Painting will be faster and cleaner if you mask first. Remove masking tape or papers before the paint is too dry as removal later can lift and break the dry paint leaving a cracked and jagged edge. To achieve a graphic effect, it’s as simple as masking your wall. First, decide on your shape, the start and finish. With some help attach the masking tape at the starting point, making sure it’s secure stretch the tape out to the finishing point. Starting at one end, gently smooth the tape down while keeping it taut. Begin with your first coat.

Where to Start? Start at the top and work down, this means beginning with the ceiling. Paint away from the light source so you are not painting in shadow. Next paint the walls, then the doors and windows, followed by the skirting and the trim. Weatherboards are painted in two stages. Paint the underside of the board first then paint the face. Paint several boards at a time then move your ladder over and continue along the rest of the wall.

Mixing and stirring is vital♨️

Before applying paint; make sure you stir it well according to the instructions on the can. Always ‘box’ your paint; i.e. if you are using more than one can, tip the contents of each into a larger container, like a large plastic bucket, and stir thoroughly. You can then pour it directly into your painting pot, or refill the original tins for future use.

Paintway are always here to help if you decide its a little bit to much for you or you don’t have the time.

The second most common question Paintway are asked, is “How can I paint VJ boards?”

Homes in Toowoomba with V Jay Walls are very common – they are mostly seen in older style Queensland homes – most people underestimate the work it takes to paint and prepare these types of walls. FEAR NOT! It can be done with some patience and preparation, and hard yakka!

It is important to ensure that your home is not painted with lead paint. If your home was built prior to 1970, and you know it hasn’t been painted in the last 20 years, speak to Paintway Toowoomba before you begin painting. In all cases, if your home hasn’t been painted since the 1980’s we would still advise having it checked. Lead was used in a smaller percentage in paints until the 80’s.

Preparation is KEY!

The very first job when painting VJ boards is to thoroughly prep the area. Start by giving your walls a light sand. The sand will ‘rough up’ the face of the wall which will give the paint a better surface to stick to. Once the sanding is completed, give your walls a wash down with sugar soap which is available in hardware shops and supermarkets.

Essential  to ensure a seamless finish, you need to fill the gaps. You need to fill the gaps of the VJ to ensure even paint coverage. A word on fillers, use a flexible filler as the VJ will expand and contract with the weather. Dry weather and the board will contract, wet weather and it will expand. Be sure to wipe off any excess filler with a damp cloth, and take care of your fingers when applying.

Choosing the right brush is also key to cutting down the time it will take, First you will need to purchase a long nap roller like the 3/4″ nap above, a short nap roller like the 3/8″ or 1/4″ above and a good quality brush. If you want to paint the walls quickly and effectively this is the best brush combination to do the job. Also often use a mini roller. If you have a steady hand, a regular brush will be fine for cutting in, but if not purchase a brush designed for cutting in.

First paint the wall with the long nap roller, the longer nap will allow the paint to get into the grooves of the VJ, then straight after, follow with the short nap roller to smooth out the texture of the paint. Continue like this around the room until you have completed your first coat, allow to dry and follow the same method for as many coats as you need to ensure even coverage.