How to revive a old Kitchen with a Fresh Coat of Paint

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets
Many old homes have a recurring issue with a claustrophobic kitchen. Dark wood paneling on the cabinets combined with a ’70s paint job makes the whole room feel enclosed, dark and stuffy. Sometimes even a nice window refuses to let in enough light to brighten up the place. In these cases, it is amazing what a little paint can do. Coat your cabinets with a light colored paint and suddenly the space feels much more open and airy.

Step 1: Make Decisions

You probably won’t be able to take one look at your cabinets and decide what paint color you want. Do you go for a pastel shade of blue or green? Is a yellow shade more appropriate for the rest of your decor? Bring home a set of sample paint swatches and picture what the room will look like primarily in that color. If you have talent with a computer graphics program, you can even attempt to simulate it.

Once you have decided on your color, you can also decide on your hardware. Do you want to keep the old drawer handles and hinges, or will you update to a more modern set? Be aware that new hardware might not be able to use the same holes as the current hardware, so you may need to adapt to different spacing.

Step 2: Prepare

Buy your paint. Buy your hardware. Buy your paint supplies, including any brushes and small rollers you want. A pair of small rollers and a pair of angle-tipped brushes should be plenty. Pick up a drop cloth to paint on. They only cost a couple of dollars and they serve quite well for this and other house painting projects. For kitchen cabinets, you will probably want a latex paint with a semi-gloss finish. This makes a nice resistant surface for later cleaning. You can always bring a detached door to the hardware store and ask the people who work there what kind of paint they recommend.

Once you have all of your supplies, remove all of the hardware from your cabinets. This includes the hinges, so you will be removing the doors as you go. Store all of the hinges and handles in a single bag so you never lose a piece. Once all the doors are loose and the cabinet frames exposed, it’s time to clean. In all likelihood, years of grease and grime have built up on these wooden surfaces. Take some grease-cutting soap and scrub them clean.

Step 3: Preparing the Surface

If you chose to go with new hardware, you may have discovered that it doesn’t quite fit in the old holes. You will need a tube of wood filler from your local hardware store to patch the old holes. When you’re painting cabinets like this, you won’t need to worry about matching the shade of the wood too closely. This is also the time to patch any annoying gouges and dings on the cabinets themselves. This way you’ll have a nice smooth surface once the paint is applied.

Examine the surface of your cabinets. Is it shiny? Chances are it is covered with layers of protective polyurethane. If you need help deciding whether to sand, feel the surface. Is it matte and slightly absorbent like a good cutting board? It’s probably fine without sanding. Does it feel more like a piece of plastic? Chances are you should sand it. If they are already painted, see if you can determine how old the paint is. Old paint might contain lead, and it’s best to remove it before you paint over it. Be careful! Lead paint is a health hazard, and sanding will get particles of it everywhere.

Step 4: Prime Everything

Even though you have already cleaned and sanded your cabinets, there still may be years-old grease stains deep in the wood. Don’t worry about sanding them out. Primer paint is designed specifically to hide these kinds of things. You will probably want to go for an oil-based primer, because grease stains have been known to seep through water-based paints and show on the new surface. One coat of oil-based primer should work perfectly for your cabinets.

Using a small paint roller, apply primer to the cabinets. You can use a small brush to work the paint into smaller grooves and patterns that the roller won’t reach. One coat should be plenty. Your primer is only there to cover the majority of any color, pattern and stain underneath. It serves to prime the surface for the actual paint later on. Once you have applied the primer, go ahead and let it dry for a couple of hours. Don’t worry about cleaning out the roller and brush — oil-based primer is hard to clean. Save the tools for any later house painting projects you may have.

Step 5: Painting

The primer should be tacky but dry by now. You can do the majority of your painting with a small roller, using your brush sparingly. This helps minimize the texture difference caused by brushstrokes and helps you paint more quickly. You will want to wait for the first coat to dry before applying the second coat. It is entirely possible, if you started early, to finish priming and painting cabinets in the space of a day.

The process of painting is where all the fun is. You get to see your chosen color displayed for the world on your cabinets and drawers. Use a steady hand to roll on paint in even strokes. Your roller is perfect for most of the cabinets and doors. It will let you easily cover the flat surfaces. For smaller crevices and grooves in the wood, use a small brush with an angled tip. The angle will help you work paint into the small grooves and corners without leaving large drops pooling in small recesses.

Did you plan to paint the inside of the cabinet doors? If so, do the inside first. You should let the primer and paint dry for several days before flipping them over to paint the outside. You do the inside first so that if anything goes wrong when you flip it, the mistakes are mostly hidden. You wait several days so the paint has had time to solidify and can resist damage.

Step 6: Finishing Up

Paintway advise you to wait for at least three days before hanging your doors once more. This gives the paint plenty of time to dry and harden. Five days is best for the most safety.

If you’re using old hardware, simply reattach it where it was before and replace everything. If you’re using new hardware, you will need to drill fresh pilot holes for the new screws. Make sure you follow the old construction adage. Measure twice, cut — or drill — once. Even taking your time, this will only take an hour or so. Finally, with your freshly painted doors hung once more, you can enjoy your new kitchen

Why Choose Paintway Toowoomba to Paint Your Home?

When you invite us into your home, The Paintway team will act respectfully and be as considerate of your space, and life, as possible.

Our promise

Paintway promises our homeowners that we will: start and finish on time; maintain a neat and clean project; make sure our language isn’t offensive; take care of all details; and stand behind our work. We care about how you feel while the work is getting done.

Paintway’s approach to interior house painting

The inside of your house is where you relax, unwind, entertain and it is truly the space you call home. Creating rooms you will enjoy requires thorough prep work and extreme attention to detail, but that’s not all—it requires ongoing communication, trust, and respect.

Five steps to a successful paint job

Discuss your desired end result
Consult with James for colour and finish recommendations
Protect all your surfaces and belongings
Properly Prepare all interior surfaces to be painted
Use top quality tools to expertly apply your coatings

Top quality tools. Top quality results.

Paintway generally uses Luxury and Dulux paints. The brand of paint used is influenced by many factors including customer preference, the nature of the project, and bid specifications. When selecting a brand of paint, we recommend using the highest grade available because the best paint will provide the best results. To make sure the finish is everything it should be, we use top quality materials, tools and supplies.

Paintway understands that we are reflecting your values when working on the exterior of your home and pay attention to the details when making your home and neighbourhood more beautiful.

We understand that the exterior of your home is the first thing a visitor sees. A beautiful exterior shows the world that you care about your home and the community you live in. Our thorough prep work and extreme attention to detail is an important factor when painting the exterior of your home, it helps create a good impression for you and your neighbours. We pride ourselves in the relationships we build with our customers, through ongoing communication, trust, and respect.

Considerations to Make If you are going to Paint your own Home.

Painting the whole outside of your house is a major job. But your home may not need a whole paint job. You may be able to spiff up the appearance of your home and extend the life of an entire paint job by several years with regular maintenance and some quick repairs. Whether you decide to paint a porch, the most weathered side of your house, or an outbuilding or two, the general process is the same as painting your whole house.

You’ll need to clean and prep the surface, decide what type of paint to use, and apply the paint. The best time to paint is in late spring or early Autumn on a dry day that is not too sunny. Temperatures below 40 degrees F and direct hot sun can ruin paint jobs. Inspect your house thoroughly before you paint, and take corrective action to prevent the root causes of paint failure.

We’ll hit on all the basics of exterior painting in his article, starting in this first section with how to deal with various paint problems.

Peeling

Peeling is often the result of painting over wet wood. It can also result from moisture within the house pushing its way out. If you cannot control the moisture with exhaust fans, use latex primer and latex paint. Latex allows some moisture to pass right through the paint.

Another cause of peeling is a dirty or a glossy surface. To undo the damage, all loose paint flakes must be scraped off with a wire brush and the surface must be sanded to smooth sharp edges. Bare spots should be primed before painting.

Alligatoring

This problem looks just like its name suggests: the hide of an alligator. Paint shrinks into individual islands, exposing the previous surface, usually because the top coat is not adhering to the paint below. Perhaps the paints are not compatible or the second coat was applied before the first coat had dried. To get rid of this problem, scrape off the old paint and then sand, prime, and repaint the surface.

Blistering

Paint that rises from the surface and forms blisters is usually due to moisture or improper painting. To fix the problem, first scrape off the blisters. If you can see dry wood behind them, the problem is due to moisture. If you find paint, then it is a solvent blister and is probably caused by painting with an oilbase or alkyd-base coating in hot weather. The heat forms a skin on the paint and traps solvent in a bubble.

Wrinkling

New paint can run and sag into a series of slack, skinlike droops. This occurs when the paint you are using is too thick and forms a surface film over the still-liquid paint below. It can also happen if you paint in cold weather; the cold surface slows drying underneath. To recoat, make sure the new paint is the proper consistency and be sure to brush it out as you apply. Before doing this, though, you will have to sand the wrinkled area smooth and, if necessary, remove the paint altogether.

Chalking

This is paint that has a dusty surface. Some oilbase and alkyd-base paints are designed to “chalk” when it rains. When this happens, a very fine powdery layer is removed, automatically cleaning the surface. In most cases, this is desirable. But if foundations, sidewalks, and shrubs become stained, too much chalking is occurring.

This is likely due to painting over a too-porous surface that has absorbed too much of the paint’s binding agents. A chemical imbalance in an inferior paint may also be the cause of excessive chalking. The best solution is to wash down the chalking surfaces as thoroughly as possible, then paint over them with a nonchalking paint.

Mildew

This moldy growth appears where dampness and shade prevail. And, if you paint over it, it’s likely to come right through the new paint. Use a fungicide such as chlorine bleach or a commercial solution to kill patches of mildew before repainting.

Running Sags

Using a paintbrush incorrectly (e.g., too much paint on the brush) can create a wavy, irregular surface. To correct it after the paint is dry, sand and repaint surface, smoothing out the new coat to an even thickness.

Paint Won’t Dry

This is perhaps the best reason to buy high-quality paint. Prolonged tackiness is an indication of inferior paint. If you apply poor-quality paint too thickly or during high humidity, it will stay tacky for a long time. Good paint, on the other hand, dries quickly. If you think you may have an inferior paint, first experiment on an inconspicuous portion of the house.

Think you’re ready to get started? If not contact paintway today for a free quote 🙂

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Should I use Primer before I paint?

Using a primer before you paint is a great way to improve the quality of your paint job. You don’t need to prime your surface in all situations, but used properly, a primer can make all the difference.

When You Should Use a Primer?

Priming before you paint isn’t always necessary, although there are occasions when priming your surface can help you achieve a perfect, professional finish.

Here’s when you should prime before you paint:

Your walls are brand new. All new plasterboard needs to be sealed with a primer before it is painted.
If your existing paint job is dry and chalky. Paint becomes chalky as it begins to breakdown. In this case, you’ll need to wash the walls thoroughly, and apply a suitable primer to create a smooth surface for the new paint to adhere to.
If you are painting over oil based paint with acrylic paint. Acrylic paint won’t adhere properly to oil based paint unless an acrylic primer is used.
If you have mended cracks or holes. New plasterboard should be sealed with a primer.If you walls are currently dark, and you want to paint them a light colour. The primer will help cover up the dark hue, so your new, light paint will show up brighter.

The Benefits of Using a Primer….

Painting a primer on your surface is a simple way to improve the finish of your paint job, and make it last longer. In most situations you can achieve better results with one coat of primer and one coat of paint, rather than two coats of paint.

Here are few benefits of priming your walls before you paint:

Priming will ensure your colour is rich and vibrant. Primers can hide the colour you are painting over – even dark reds and blues – so the old colour doesn’t alter the new colour.
Priming will create the ideal surface for paint to adhere to. While paints are rich in pigment, primers are rich in resin. This means paint can cling to primer more effectively than old paint. Primer also evens out your surface, so you can achieve a consistent finish.
Primers can prevent stains. Primers seal the surface, and therefore block out stains so they can’t ruin your paint job.
Primers can increase the longevity of your paint. Primers can help prevent peeling, cracking and blistering. They will also ensure the paint colour doesn’t fade.

What type of Paint Should You Use In Your Home?

When painting your home, using the right paint is important if you want the job to look professionally .There are many different kinds of paint: latex, oil based, semi-gloss, flat and chalkboard. Each of these has different meanings and uses. Do you know which paint goes on what surface? Here are some tips about getting it right.

Ceilings:
Ceilings are usually painted with a flat paint. You will see that there are many paints formulated specifically for ceilings. Painting ceilings can be problematic in that it can be hard to see where you have painted and where you still need to paint, so ceiling paints often have a tint to them that disappears when the paint dries. A flat finish is a good way to hide any irregularities in the surface and ceiling paint usually rolls on with very minimal splatter.

Woodwork:
Woodwork and trim is usually painted with a semi-gloss paint. It can be either a latex or oil based paint, but it has a sheen to it once it’s dry. If painting bare wood, you will have to prime it. Semi-gloss paint is easy to clean. You can also use a flat or satin finish, but only where woodwork will have very little wear and tear.

Walls:
Latex is a good choice for walls, and a satin finish is easiest to keep clean. The satin finish has a bit of a sheen, but it isn’t shiny or glossy. Latex paint can be easily applied with brush or roller and you should also prime any previously unpainted surface first.

Metal:
The type of paint you use on metal will depend on the type of metal. You can use latex or oil paint on iron or steel that has been primed first. If painting aluminum or galvanized metal you can paint latex directly without primer, but not oil based paint. That will still need primer first.
(cement, concrete block or brick): If painting masonry of any type, you will need to use an acrylic latex paint designed specifically for masonry.

Floors:
It is unusual to paint floors, but if you are, use a high gloss, acrylic floor enamel specifically designed for floors. This will stand up better to the abrasion of feet, shoes, pet nails and scrubbing.

Chalkboard paint was also mentioned above. This can be used on many surfaces, but also may need primer, depending on the surface.

If still in doubt Always best to leave it to a professional:

Visit us today

Use psychology to colour your home……

Colour choice is a big step when you’re redecorating. No matter which room – be it a home office, children’s bedroom or ensuite bathroom – the colour is going impact how that space feels in more ways than one.

As you may know, colour plays an important role in the physical make up of your project. It highlights specific features, creates bold lines and shadows or flattens the ceiling and walls to create a sense of space. However, it also has psychological aspects to it. Here is a run down on how different hues can change the way you feel about a room.

Red

Red is a strong, passionate colour and can have quite drastic uplifting effects on the occupants of a red-inspired space. According to colour psychologists, red helps bring people together in a room and instigates conversation.

Hues like Sensual Red and Shiraz both bring out the energy in people, and create a powerful first impression around an entranceway. Some consider it too much for a bedroom, though that being said, its high adrenalin may still be for you. If you want red in a bedroom without going overboard, try using it on the wall behind the bed. That way you’ll get to enjoy it while you are moving around the room, but if you’re sick in bed you won’t have it keeping you awake.

Blue

Entirely the opposite of its red counterpart, blue acts as a peacemaker and is a calming colour to be amongst. In fact, anyone who talks to you about feng shui will discuss how serene and freeing the colour can be. However, the choice of blue is important because the wrong tone can create negative emotions, rather than calming ones.

For example, pastel blues can make a room appear cold and very dark blues can invoke a sense of sadness. Don’t avoid the colour, however, instead just focus more on mid-tones like Navy Blue or Periglacial Blue then scatter some warmer features to accompany.

Green

Though the mere mention of green might turn some of you away, don’t discount the colour just yet. According to feng shui, green is the ancient colour of movement and nature. It is a pleasant colour to look at and has a calming effect as well, thanks to it being a combination if blue and yellow.

Used in a study, office, library or other place of work it will help stimulate restful minds within the occupants, hopefully making them a little less distracted. If you’re worried about the look of a luminous lime green, consider something more along the lines of Citrone Green, Sushi Green, or use in small doses.

White

White and off-white are great for almost any room, and instantly brighten it up and disperse hard lines and shadows, offering a sense of space and happiness.

Whites like Merino or Half SoapStone symbolise purity, cleanliness and air, which is why they’re so good for small apartments, cramped houses and bathrooms. Covering the entire space, however, gives some people the idea of a sterile space – maybe because hospitals and such are predominantly bright colours. White can, however, be used to effectively uplift highlights and accents instead.

Greys/Blacks

As a primary colour, greys and blacks don’t always work so well by themselves, as they can give off all of the wrong impressions. For example, black instantly darkens a room as it absorbs colour, and the wrong use of grey can give the impression of fear and restraint. Used to highlight, feature or accent, however, these neutral colours are perfect.

Set against a bright backdrop, such as white, black stands out perfectly and gives a sense of elegance. Grey can have a similar impact, too, though on a more subtle level. In your spaces, try defining with Delta Grey, Fuscous Grey or Grey Triple Mondo.

Hope you enjoyed Reading about these tips to help choose your colour for your home.

Quick KEY Tips to Paint Your Home…..Follow some of these simple D.I.Y tips

1. Slosh Your Brush Quick KEY Tips to Paint Your Home

Before painting, slosh your brush in whatever solvent you will be using at the end of the day to clean the brush (i.e., water for latex, mineral spirits for oil, etc.) It’ll be easier to clean when you’re done.

2. Wrap Brush or Roller

If you don’t feel like cleaning your brush or roller at the end of the day and expect to get back to painting within a few days–

3. Latex Gloves or Lotion, Your Pick

Latex gloves are great for keeping your hands clean (especially if you’re using oil-based paint!). If you can’t stand latex gloves or are allergic, a thick application of hand lotion before painting will make cleaning a lot easier later on.

4. Wet Edge

Always keep a wet edge as you paint, and work away from that wet edge. If you paint over a dry edge, you will get overlap marks.

5. Avoid Cheap Roller Covers and Brushes

This one is important. Cheap roller covers leave fuzz on the wall. Cheap brushes leave streaky brush marks. Avoid those multi-packs of rollers, ten for a dollar. Pay the extra few cents and get better tools. It’ll be worth it. Honest it will.

6. Test for Loose Paint

Will the existing painted surface take new paint? And hold it for years to come? Test this out by adhering a strip of duct tape to the existing painted surface and…ripping it away. If flakes of paint more than microscopic size come off, you may need to scrape and sand

7. Low-Stick Masking Tape

Also known as “blue tape,” this tape comes off easier and doesn’t peel off primer or existing paint. Blue tape, by itself, will save you at least an hour of frustration over the old-style beige masking tape.

8. Rein in Your Paint Can Opener

Paint can openers, those little metal keys (you do use one, don’t you?) are notorious for getting lost in the shuffle. Chain it to a small chunk of wood just like a public bathroom key. Whatever you do, just don’t lose it!

9. Painting Process

Paint in this order:
Ceiling
Walls
Trim
Cabinets
Doors
And remember to always paint from top-down!

How to Find the Right Painting Contractor?

Your time is valuable! Hire a professional painter for your next project😀

Using a professional painting contractor takes the stress out of painting your home. But finding the right one is an important decision that requires careful consideration.
Paintway give you the following tips to hire the right professional for any painting project:

The best way to find a quality painting contractor is to get referrals from friends, neighbours, and acquaintances who have had good experiences with painting contractors in your area.

Get Quotes from at Least Two Contractors Paintway are always competitive with price.

If quotes differ widely from one another, ask what is not being done or where corners are being cut. Often the less you pay the quality will suffer. Cheap Price …Cheap Painting Job 🙂

Don’t be afraid to ask questions! The only silly question is the one that isn’t asked!

Always ask contractors the following questions:
How long have you been in business?
Do you have the proper/required licenses? (This varies by state, and some states may not require licensing.)
Do you have insurance? (This helps determine whether your contractor and any hired workers are insured for injury and liability.)
Can you provide references?
Do you offer written guarantees of your work?
What products do you use?

Be Specific About the Project
It’s a good idea to walk each potential contractor around the areas (indoor or outdoor) to be painted while discussing your needs, and particularly any aspects of the project that could affect the price. Be specific about which surfaces you want to have painted (walls, trims, moldings, ceilings, etc.) and the paint colours and finishes you want used.

As you meet with each contractor, pay attention to the following signs and behaviours:
Does the contractor project a sense of professionalism and experience?
Is the contractor courteous and business-like?
Is the contractor busy? (Good ones usually are.)
Does the contractor return phone calls and provide quotes in a timely manner?
Is the contractor on time for appointments?

Review the Contract
Once you’ve settled on a contractor, ask for a written contract and review it carefully. As a consumer, you have the right to ask detailed questions about any issues you need clarified. In particular, be sure to verify the following:
What exactly is being painted (house, trim, walls, moulding, etc.)
Details on preparation and cleanup We always CLEAN UP! Alot of Painters Don’t.
Paint colours for each area to be painted
How the contractor will protect plants, patios, furniture, or other items
How much time the project will take, from start to finish
When and how the contractor will be paid
Once you complete these steps, you’ll be ready to hire the right painting contractor—and enjoy your newly painted home.

The SImple Way to Use a Paint Roller

Load the roller cover with paint

Load the roller cover with paint by dipping into the paint about 1/2 in. and then rolling it against the screen. Filling a dry roller cover with paint will require five or six repetitions. After that, two or three dips are all you need. Leave the roller almost dripping with paint.

Roll paint on the wall

Lay the paint on the wall with a sweeping stroke. Start about a foot from the bottom and 6 in. from the corner and roll upward at a slight angle using light pressure. Stop a few inches from the ceiling. Now roll up and down back toward the corner to quickly spread the paint. You can leave paint buildup and roller marks at this step. Don’t worry about a perfect job yet.

Use a quality roller sleeve

A good roller cover is the most important part of your rolling setup.

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Smooth the paint along the ceiling using a long horizontal stroke without reloading the roller with paint. If you are skilled enough to roll within an inch of the ceiling while rolling vertically, you can skip this step.

Keep a wet edge. Keeping a wet edge is crucial to all top-quality paint jobs, whether you’re enameling a door, varnishing furniture or rolling paint on a wall. The idea is to plan the sequence of work and work fast enough so that you’re always lapping newly applied paint onto paint that’s still wet. If you stop for a break in the middle of a wall, for example, and then start painting after this section has dried, you’ll likely see a lap mark where the two areas join. The rolling technique we show avoids this problem by allowing you to quickly cover a large area with paint and then return to smooth it out—which brings us to the second important painting technique.

Lay it on, smooth it off. The biggest mistake most beginning painters make, whether they’re brushing or rolling, is taking too long to apply the paint. Photo 1 shows how to lay on the paint. Then quickly spread it out and repeat the laying-on process again (Photo 2). This will only work with a good-quality roller cover that holds a lot of paint. Until you’re comfortable with the technique and get a feel for how quickly the paint is drying, cover only about 3 or 4 ft. of wall before smoothing the whole area off (Photo 3). If you find the paint is drying slowly, you can cover an entire wall before smoothing it off.

Get as close as you can. Since rollers can’t get tight to edges, the first painting step is to brush along the ceiling, inside corners and moldings. This “cutting in” process leaves brush marks that won’t match the roller texture on the rest of the wall. For the best looking job, you’ll want to cover as many brush marks as possible with the roller. Do this by carefully rolling up close to inside corners, moldings and the ceiling. Face the open end of the roller toward the edge and remember not to use a roller that’s fully loaded with paint. With practice, you’ll be able to get within an inch of the ceiling rolling vertically, and can avoid crawling up on a ladder to paint horizontally like we show above.

Pick out the lumps before they dry. It’s inevitable that you’ll end up with an occasional lump in your paint. Keep the roller cover away from the floor where it might pick up bits of debris that are later spread against the wall. Drying bits of paint from the edge of the bucket or bucket screen can also cause this problem. Cover the bucket with a damp cloth when you’re not using it. If partially dried paint is sloughing off the screen, take it out and clean it. Keep a wet rag in your pocket and pick lumps off the wall as you go. Strain used paint through a mesh paint strainer to remove lumps.

Scrape excess paint from the roller before you wash it. Use your putty knife, or better yet, a special roller-scraping tool with a semicircular cutout in the blade. Then rinse the roller cover until the water runs clear. A roller and paint brush spinning tool, available at hardware and paint stores for about $8, simplifies the cleaning task. Just slip the roller cover onto the spinner and repeatedly wet and spin out the roller until it’s clean.

Paintway’s tips for preparation to painting inside your Home

Most of us can do an okay job of painting a room. But a seasoned professional does a great job. Obviously, pros have more experience than the average homeowner, but they also know techniques and tricks that make them better painters. Some of what you’ll read may surprise you. For instance, their secrets won’t cut painting time. Painters spend two to four days on an average-size room. That’s how long it takes to prep, prime and paint correctly. It’s more work, but when you stand back to admire the results, you’ll agree it’s time well spent.To begin, move everything out of the room. Bigger pieces of furniture can sometimes be left covered in the center of larger rooms, but if you are repairing wall, Take everything out. Plastering a wall dust…..dust goes everywhere.” Remove doors, light fixtures and hardware, and label everything with masking tape. Also, invest in drop cloths. “It’s surprising how well a few drops of paint can cover a floor, Buy high-quality drop cloths, such as canvas or paper-backed plastic. (Paint soaks right through lightweight fabrics and bedsheets.) Plastic sheeting works, but it’s very slippery and doesn’t absorb drips.

PREPARE THE SURFACES Find, then fix, cracks and dents 🙂

SELECTING THE PAINT Pick a powerful primer …Preparation is if not MORE important than the painting itself!

Paintway’s tips for preparation to painting inside your Home

CHOOSE THE RIGHT PAINTING EQUIPMENTRoller rules
The perfect roller would hold a roomful of paint, leave the right amount of texture, wouldn’t spray or fuzz, and would be easy to clean. Until somebody invents the ideal one, follow these tips to choose the right roller. “The longer the nap, the more paint the roller will hold, but it will also create more texture. A 1/2-inch nap lamb’s-wool roller holds plenty of paint without too much texture, Less expensive rollers can work, Just wash them first in dishwashing liquid to remove any stray fibers.

Use a bucket

Paintway prefer buckets with a roller grid to roller pans. They hold more paint than pans and It’s tougher to tip over a bucket.

A bucket also lets you box, or mix, two or three cans of paint to avoid color discrepancies. To use a bucket and grid, dip the roller a quarter of the way into the paint and run it over the ramp to work the paint into the nap.

Work with a painter’s rod
A painter’s rod, or pole, can help you paint ceilings more quickly — no climbing up and down ladders required. And there’s no need to stand directly underneath the area you are painting, so you won’t catch every wayward splatter. A pole is also great for walls and floors.

Buy a better brush
A good paintbrush is key to a professional-looking finish. “A quality brush costs $15 to $25, The equipment has a lot to do with their success. Pay attention to the bristles. Synthetic brushes are made of nylon or polyester, or a combination of the two. Poly bristles are stiffer, which makes them good for exterior or textured work, but for fine interior work, Paintway uses softer nylon brushes. Look also for tapered bristles, which can help you work to an edge, and flagged tips, which help spread the finish smoothly and evenly. Brushes are available in 1- to 4-inch widths. Paintway keep an arsenal on hand to match the job. A smaller brush gives you more control, but no one wants to paint a door with a 1-inch-wide brush, starting with a 2- or 2-1/2-inch sash brush. The angled brush makes it easier to cut to a line and puts more bristles on the work than a square-tipped brush.

Interior House Painting